Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

While it is not food related, let’s talk about yeast!  No, not candida! Dogs don’t get that. Dogs get the Malassezia strain of yeast. While this strain of yeast is normal on your dog’s skin, the problem occurs when the yeast growth goes into overdrive and ends up in an overgrowth of the yeast. This can be due to immune suppression, ill health, recent vaccinations, old age or young puppies with immature immune systems.

This has been a banner year for itchy dogs and people have been asking me if food and environmental allergies may be the culprit. They have tried using Apoquel and Cytopoint and are still having problems with continual itching and discomfort in their dogs.

I am addressing this because I have been battling itching in four of my adult Brussels Griffons and two puppies! AND, it took me a few days to catch on to exactly what was going on. The first symptoms I observed were several dogs itching themselves – mostly on their stomach and sides of their bodies, their shoulder area and around their ears. Some were head rubbing on my bed. I finally had the inspiration to check their ears. Two of them had a dark discharge. I then checked their bellies. The adult dogs had various shades of grey or brown spotting on their bellies AND their skin was very pink – especially in the affected and itchy areas. Some of them also appeared to have oily skin and dry coats.

I bathed all them in an herbal shampoo I had, however the itching started up again within a few hours. This dispelled the notion of an environmental allergy. After some research and talking to a veterinarian friend, I was told itching was worse when it was due to yeast – more so than allergies or flea bites. Additionally, I was told the itching could continue for up to a MONTH after I got it under control. A MONTH! Yes, a month!

So, I kicked into high gear and got some anti-fungal shampoo, an anti-fungal spray, and special wipes with ketoconazole and chlorhexidine, which are especially good for the ears! Even after bathing them every other day, using the spray and the wipes, my dogs were still itching! However, it was becoming less often. I washed their bedding and my bedspread daily and I mopped my floors and cleaned their crates with bleach and other disinfectants daily.

The puppies got it because they were nursing off their mother. Their mother got the overgrowth of yeast on her stomach, which is warm and moist and just what yeast LOVES and NEEDS to grow and thrive. The same environment also exists in the ears, around the female vulva, the males’ groin area, the anus, armpits, and in and around any wrinkles the dog might have – especially on the face, neck or back.

Some things that can help include using an athlete’s foot spray on their feet if they are itchy. You can also rinse the dog with a solution of 3/4 water and 1/4 white vinegar. Vinegar can kill yeast on contact, but it only works for the time you use it so it must be repeated.

Understand, not all dogs get this. Dogs with compromised immune systems, certain coat colors (white or red fur), lots of folds in the skin or face, and dogs that are stressed are more likely to have this problem. Yeast is opportunistic and selects the most susceptible dogs. Puppies, seniors, those on immune suppressing drugs or those that were recently vaccinated. Here in Texas, we had 90-degree weather in October and rain every day – a perfect environment for yeast to grow.

I truly believe most of the skin problems we see in our dogs is yeast. The dog may have had a prior issue that caused the itching – whether it was fleas, environmental allergies, or maybe a drug reaction that caused the problem – but even after resolving the cause, the yeast set in and stayed. If the problem gets really bad, the dog can secret an oil that causes a bad odor and seborrhea. This causes the skin to become oily – often causing drops of oil here and there on the skin – and the fur to become dry and stiff in the affected areas. I also believe food allergies are really just yeast on the dog. While both need to be addressed, I suggest working hard on getting rid of the yeast and/or bacteria on the skin.

I am getting a big tired of running the washing machine and mopping every day, but I know the end result is worth it. I suggest no carb treats as sugar helps the yeast grow! Give baths every other day for a week or two, spray them with an anti-fungal spray and treat with the yeast and bacteria killing wipes. Bacteria and yeast tend to ping-pong back and forth, so you need to be aware of both of these issues when the itching occurs.  It takes time, but you will have good results if you’re diligent and do these things. As the puppies grow, they will develop more mature immune systems. AND my puppies had just been vaccinated the week before their outbreak happened, which is not just a coincidence. Vaccinations can suppress a dog’s immune system for up to 3 weeks.

The best way to diagnose yeast is with a skin scraping and culture, which I highly recommend!  I can’t stress this enough! This test is done at your veterinarian’s office and can show both yeast and bacteria. Once a dog itches their skin enough, it can develop sores. When this happens, bacteria can set in quickly.  While antibiotics will be needed to treat bacteria, it is important to remember to give your dog a good probiotic blend, such as the Berte’s Ultra Probiotic Powder. Antibiotics kill both the good and bad bacteria, so the probiotics are beneficial for replenishing the good bacteria and they help fight yeast! Steroids may be suggested by your veterinarian, however, it is important to know that they often make yeast proliferate and grow at an alarming rate. Continue with the probiotics, the ketoconazole and chlorhexidine wipes, baths and cleaning your dog’s bedding. And remember, your dogs may itch for up to a month after the yeast is gone, so continue to treat your dog to help stop the itching and to stop new bacteria from settling on the skin.

So let’s recap!  What should you do?

• Get a skin scraping and culture at your veterinarian’s office for yeast and bacteria
• Bathe your dogs 2-3 times a week with an anti-fungal shampoo. Use a white vinegar mix at ¼ vinegar and ¾ water as a good clean rinse!
• Apply a good anti-fungal spray onto your dog’s skin.
• Use ketoconazole and chlorhexidine wipes to clean your dog’s ears once or twice daily, and around the belly, vulva, male groin area, anus and feet daily.
• Wash your dog’s bedding and mop your floors daily
• And when all seems for naught, carry on! It does take time to combat and finally get rid of topical yeast on dogs.

Your persistence will make your dog grateful and you relieved! Remember what makes yeast grow and get worse – hot weather, long damp rainy weather, turning on the furnace in the fall, a suppressed immune system, vaccinations, or an illness.  All of these provide an opportunity for the yeast fungus to take root!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

In Part 1, we discussed a little about the history of dog food and the process behind ‘approving’ dog food which suggests part of the approval and determination of the ingredients (maybe most) and how it is controlled by the pet food industry. In that light, it is important to understand the basic needs of nutrition for dogs and what ingredients and percentages your dog needs.

In Part 2, we discussed that nutrition isn’t an exact science. Nutrition data and tables are made based on the best research available at the time, but the parameters aren’t always exact. And not even the experts can always agree. We do know however, dogs need high quality animal protein and fat and if we are feeding our dogs our own home-cooked diet, we need to add calcium if we aren’t feeding any bone in their diet.

This month in Part 3, we let you know how easy it is to prepare a nourishing diet for your dog whether you choose to feed a home-cooked or raw diet!

Home-Cooked Diets

The primary difference between a home-cooked diet and a raw diet, is that home-cooked diets don’t include bone and therefore require the addition of both vegetables and calcium.

• The amount of food to feed your dog on a home-cooked diet should be approximately 2% to 3% of your dog’s body weight daily, divided into 2 daily meals.
• Three quarters (75%) of the recipe is made up of animal protein and fat. This includes any ground meat, heart meat, plain yogurt, eggs, cottage cheese and about 10% organ meat (liver or kidney). Many of the more common meats used include chicken, turkey, pork, beef, venison, lamb, rabbit and duck. I encourage feeding a VARIETY of different proteins – at least four over the course of the week. No two proteins are identical in nutrients (amino acids, minerals), so providing a variety of proteins each week helps insure your dog is getting all the minerals and amino acids it needs. I also recommend not over-cooking the meats. You can bake the meats in the oven, fry them on the stove or lightly cook them in a crockpot. What is important is to not over-cook the meats as high heats breaks down the amino acids. Also, SAVE the liquid from the cooking process and include it in your dog’s meal. Taurine, a very important amino acid, does well on light cooking but often runs off into the juices, so save those juices and serve it with the meal!
• One-quarter (25%) of the meal is vegetables. I don’t recommend starchy vegetables such as potatoes or parsnips, or any grains. I DO recommend zucchini, broccoli, cauliflower, dark leafy greens and cabbage. Dogs can’t digest the cell walls of the vegetables, so they must be fully cooked and mashed or frozen and thawed so they turn to mush. Dogs don’t get any nutritional value from vegetables, so their body does not need them, however, in home-cooked diets, the vegetables provide important fiber to help stools firm.
• Mix the animal protein and fat and vegetables well. For added convenience, you can make large batches of various meat (protein) and vegetable recipes and freeze them in meal-sized portions. That way you can thaw overnight what is needed for the next day.
• IMPORTANT NOTE! For every pound of food served, you need to add 900 mg of calcium. I recommend either calcium carbonate or calcium citrate. The meat and organ meat provide all the minerals your dog needs in the right balance, except for the calcium, which is why you need to add it. This supplement is inexpensive and can be purchased at any grocery or drug store. You also need to add D3 to help with the absorption of the calcium. The Berte’s Daily Blend and Berte’s Immune Blend contains not only the recommended amount of D3 needed, but also vitamins A, B, C, and E. Additionally, it is very important to add Omega 3 fish oil capsules to COOLED food at 1000 mg per 10-20 pounds of your dog’s body weight. Omega 3 fish oil is heart, liver and kidney protective, fights inflammation and supports healthy skin and coat. Add these supplements to the food right before serving. It’s that easy and simple!

Raw Diets

Raw diets are also served in two meals daily. However, one meal is a raw meaty bone meal and the other is a muscle meat meal that contains a variety of ground meat, heart, green tripe, organ meat, yogurt and eggs. The reason for this is that the bones in the raw meaty bone meal that makes up half of the diet provides the calcium your dog needs. Serving one raw meaty bone meal and one muscle meat meal, balances your dog’s diet!

• The amount of food to feed your dog on a raw diet should also be approximately 2% to 3% of your dog’s body weight daily, divided into 2 meals daily.
• Raw meaty bones include chicken necks, turkey necks (cut up), pork neck bones, duck necks (cut up), pork ribs, chicken backs, chicken wings and chicken leg quarters for large dogs. I recommend removing the skin from the chicken necks and turkey necks before serving, especially for dogs new to the raw diet. You can buy any of these already ground up if you are just starting to feed raw bones and you are a bit uneasy. I’d like to invite you to join my Facebook group, K9Nutrition for suggestions on where you can buy these pre-ground foods. The ground bone in the raw diet not only provides the calcium your dog needs, it also is the key ingredient needed to helps keep your dog’s stools firm – a primary reason no vegetables are needed in the raw diet.
• The muscle meat meal consists of ground meat, cut up meat (from roasts or briskets), any type of heart meat (chicken, turkey, pork, beef), green tripe (you need to buy green tripe from a supplier who sells meat for dogs), eggs, yogurt, and organ meat (no more than 10%), either liver or kidney.
• The supplements I suggest be added to a raw diet is either the Berte’s Daily Blend or the Berte’s Immune Blend (at half dose for healthy dogs), and fish oil capsules at one 1,000 mg capsule per 10-20 pounds the dog’s body weight daily. You can also add the Berte’s Green Blend, for some trace minerals.

New Diet Change Tips

Any diet change can cause loose stools until your dog has adjusted to the diet change. If your dog is new to a home-cooked or raw diet, I recommend adding Berte’s Ultra Probiotic Powder to the menu! This digestion aid can help get your dog through the transition period as you change from your current diet to that of either a home-cooked or raw diet. This supplement helps keep the flora and fauna bacteria balanced and your dog’s stools firm.

If you are starting out on either a home-cooked diet or a raw diet because your dog has a current digestion issue, I highly recommend adding the Berte’s Digestion Blend. Start at HALF dose for the first 2 weeks and work to full dose if needed. The Berte’s Digestion Blend helps heal an inflamed digestive tract and supports what some call a ‘sensitive’ stomach.

And that is it! It is not difficult! Please contact me with your questions. I also urge you to join my K9Nutriton page on Facebook for more advice and ideas on this topic.

Lastly, if you are still feeling like this is a daunting task, my raw diet and home-cooked diet videos provide more information. They can be purchased at:

https://rawandnaturalnutritionfordogs.teachable.com.

The videos are $60 each and are about a half hour long. You can also purchase the entire course, “Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs” and take the test at the end to receive a certification of completion when finished for $199!

Enjoy the fall weather and for those in the United States, Happy Thanksgiving!

Stay Active, Eat Well and Be Kind to One Another!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

Last month we examined the concerns dog owners have of feeling secure about feeding their dogs a balanced diet. I addressed the issue of commercial dog food and how the labeling can reveal just how uncertain the ingredients might be and to examine the quality of the protein contents. While dog food companies often label their products as ‘complete and balanced’, they frequently change the ingredients in their foods, but are not required to update the labeling for 6 months. It is also important to remember that when you feed your dog a fixed diet (never changing the ingredients) it is FAR more important for that diet to be as complete as possible. Any mistakes could be very costly and could affect the dog’s health and wellbeing. This has been seen in the many recalls over the years, including the melamine scare in 2007.

https://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/SafetyHealth/Recallswithdrawals/ucm129575.htm

Many dog owners become confused, especially in light of the all the conflicting and inconsistent information they find on the Internet and Facebook.

Feeding your dog is not difficult. It is no more difficult than feeding yourself or your family. There are, however, some nutritional differences due to the digestive system differences between humans and canines. Canines have a shorter and simpler digestive tract. They have little ability to ferment grains and high fiber diets as their system is designed to eat animal protein and fats. All of the canine teeth are sharp and pointed to tear meat. Their teeth are not flat and so they are not designed for grinding or chewing grains or starches. Canines also lack amylase in their saliva, which is needed to break down sugars and starches. Additionally, their jaws only have the ability to move up and down, not from side to side. They are designed to eat large chunks of food and gulp it down without chewing. Their basic needs are met by animal proteins and fat, with some bone for their calcium needs. Some examples include muscle meat (ground or chunks), small amounts of organ meat, eggs, green tripe, and any type of heart, yogurt, cottage cheese and wild game. We use limited vegetables for cooked diets. No vegetables are needed in raw diets. The NRC (Natural Research Council) does state dogs have no nutritional need for carbohydrates (grains, legumes, vegetables, fruits).

Nutrition is not cut, and dried, and nutritional standards and ideas are constantly being researched, debated and changed all the time. While suggested values are given in nutrition charts, human nutrition offers food pyramids more geared to percentages and what foods to eat and what foods to avoid. Mother Nature is forgiving and you and your dog can get the nutrients you need over time. It’s not necessary to consume every needed nutrient in each meal. Dogs are not unique and there is no need for breaking down each meal to check nutrients. For an example on how human nutrition guidelines are offered to people via government guidelines, read more below:

“The 2015-2020 Dietary Guidelines embodies the idea that a healthy eating pattern is not a rigid plan. Rather, it can be adapted to include foods people enjoy that meet their personal preferences and fit within their budget. In essence, a personalized healthy eating pattern could be considered the way or style in which a person makes healthy choices they can maintain over time. For that reason, MyPlate uses ‘healthy eating style’ to speak to consumers when referring to ‘healthy eating patterns’ that are highlighted in the Dietary Guidelines. All of the food and beverage choices you make matter. Start with small changes to make healthier choices you can enjoy and create your own healthy eating style! Find your healthy eating style with MyPlate, MyWins.

https://www.choosemyplate.gov/2015-2020-dietary-guidelines-answers-your-questions

And even as we have a nutrition guideline for people, it is constantly changing:

“‘Twenty years ago, I think we knew about 10 percent of what we need to know’ about nutrition, said Dr. Dariush Mozaffarian, the dean of the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University. ‘And now we know about 40 or 50 percent.’”

http://www.heraldtribune.com/news/20160802/whats-a-healthy-food-even-experts-disagree

The same is true for dogs, however far less money and research goes into studying and learning about what dogs need. And much of the information we do get comes from dog food companies and veterinarian academics linked to these pet food companies. Yes, most dogs are reasonably healthy and have survived all these years. But the amount of debate on canine nutrition abounds in articles, newspapers, magazines and the internet. And even the top human nutritionists disagree today on what is good for people and what isn’t:

“‘Ninety minutes into the meeting, we were still trying to agree what the hell a vegetable was’, said Dr. David Katz, director of Yale University’s Prevention Research Center. ‘That was a dark moment.’”

https://www.statnews.com/2015/11/24/nutrition-diet-healthy-foods/

And even more interesting, is how the top human nutrition experts disagree on the newest recommendations. I suggest reading the following article.

“The highly anticipated 2015 Dietary Guidelines for Americans were released on Thursday—and they’re proving controversial, with disagreement among industry and the nutrition community over whether red and processed meat should have been called out, and whether issues like sustainability should have been included. Months before the Guidelines came out, an independent group of experts—called the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, or DGAC—proposed non-binding recommendations for the Dietary Guidelines. Some experts took issue with how the final product differs. Here, top experts in the field of nutrition provide their thoughts on the new Guidelines:”

http://time.com/4170928/dietary-guidelines-nutrition-experts/

Arguments and disagreements similar to those found on dog nutrition groups and Facebook pages are also found in human nutrition. Each expert likes to make their own opinion known, and has some desire to be the forerunner of ‘New Ideas’; it is a way to be recognized and gain fame, sell new brands of food (raw or processed), videos, and related products.

The bottom line for dogs is that they need animal-based protein and fats. As the NRC has stated, dogs have no nutritional need for plant-based foods. Meat already comes naturally balanced with all the minerals needed, except for calcium (found in bone). Some vitamins can be added that are harder to find in most foods (D3, E, probiotics, omega 3) but at least when you prepare your dog’s food, you know EXACTLY what is in it. You have control over the ingredients used and the variety added to provide a better array of the amino acids found in proteins, vitamins and minerals. Nature does NOT have exact parameters, and frankly, all life would have ceased on earth if she did. There really is no ‘magic combination’ or series of correct supplements, but a fresh, varied diet should provide your dog most of what it needs. If you are truly worried, try to source meat from animals that are pasture and free-range fed for best mineral content. My dogs have done well on regularly sourced meat. Grass fed animals tend to have better mineral content due to the minerals found in the ground, but that also depends on the area where they graze.

In Part 3, I will go into detail – in an easy to understand manner – on how to prepare home cooked and raw diets for dogs. I will provide simple steps and guidelines for feeding both of these diets, which are wholesome, healthy and balanced!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

Many people who want to feed their dog a better diet, worry about whether the diet is complete and has all the nutrients needed for their dog to be healthy and thrive. And most certainly this concern is normal, as most of these people are pursuing a new concept on feeding their dog. There are even people who worry about changing from one type of commercial dog food, to another. Everyone wants to feed their dog the best, most affordable diet. But how do we overcome these fears and worries?

The standard trust and belief, of course, is that commercial dog food is complete and contains the best nutrients dogs need. For over 50 years, pet food companies have been stating that their food is ‘complete and balanced’. Their formulas are based on the National Research Council (NRC) guidelines, or the ‘gold standard’ for research and conclusions on canine nutrition. And AAFCO (Association of Animal Feed Control Officials) controls the labeling (as per what can be put on the labels), but AAFCO does not test foods. While the NRC is a Federal Government agency, AAFCO has a board of directors they answer to – many of whom are veterinarians and pet food industry members. It is a private organization that serves manufacturers and their products.

AAFCO has a list of guidelines for making pet food and treats. It includes licensing, ingredients that can be used, labeling and nutritional labeling requirements, and lists laboratories where food can be submitted for analysis. AAFCO only allows their list of approved ingredients that can be put in pet food.

https://petfood.aafco.org

However, AAFCO doesn’t have to follow the same nutritional needs that are put out by the NRC. It is also important to note that AAFCO is a private organization that has a heavy influence on the big pet food manufacturers that are on its board and the decisions they make.

Some years ago, NRC changed their standards for canine nutrition, however AAFCO refused to follow them. Why? NRC wanted better quality animal protein, less grains and other carbohydrates that contained phytates which block mineral uptake. Frankly, it is just too expensive to make a better quality of food that can withstand months of shelf life in a bag. Plus, the testing for pet food requires a 24-month trial of the food on 8 dogs, which is too costly and rarely, if ever, used today. Now an analysis done at a lab is deemed suitable, where the results simply tell the protein, fiber, fat and moisture content. It doesn’t test for quality, the bioavailability of the protein, or state if it is even animal protein.  Please note, a pet food company can change their ingredients at any time and they are allowed a 6 month grace period to change their labels. AND, they only need estimates for the protein and fat content – which can vary from batch to batch – with small variations being acceptable.

So, while the bulk of the public continues to maintain their trust that their dog food contains all their dog needs, please understand that it may not be the case with commercial pet foods. The food is dry, which means it has been heavily processed under high heats and the packaging contains product descriptions and labels that can be misleading or misunderstood by the average consumer. When the labels contain numerous ingredients, it becomes confusing as to just what the main ingredients are. Additionally, the labels don’t state the quality of the meat and other ingredients used, or if they are counting plant proteins as part of the total protein profile. Plant proteins are incomplete for dogs and lack important minerals that dogs need. To compensate for this, dog food companies add powdered supplements such as minerals, vitamins, etc., to try and make the dog food complete. However, in reality, the product is just a heavily processed food that relies on additives rather than the food itself. Most of us know that eating processed foods with additives is not the healthiest way to eat the bulk of our diet. It is the same for your dog!

So, my best advice to those feeding commercial pet foods is to switch brands often, as well as the primary protein source (chicken, beef, lamb, turkey, venison, and fish). I encourage people to add some fresh protein to each meal. This includes fresh meat, occasionally organ meat, plain yogurt, and eggs (boiled or raw).  In my opinion, dry dog food uses far too many plant sources in their food – about 40% or more. This includes grains, legumes, vegetables, vegetable fiber, grain flours and even fruit. Dogs are carnivores, and therefore, have no nutritional need for carbohydrates (as stated by the NRC), so these carbohydrate ingredients are just fillers. Adding more animal-based proteins and fats will at least give your dog some quality proteins that include the amino acids your dogs needs for heart, kidney and liver health. Adding some fresh fat helps the skin and coat, as rendered fats found in dry dog food is far less effective in this regard. You can add up to 50% of your dog’s daily commercial food diet with fresh foods!

Next month in part two, I will discuss balancing home cooked and raw diets and dispel the fears you may have on both of these subjects. As a teaser, I will say that dogs are no more complicated than we humans are when it comes to eating and preparing their, however dogs have some different nutritional needs. Dog food companies (and some internet salesmen), however, may want and need you to believe that dogs are far more complicated. I will work through the comments these people may make so you have the confidence to prepare your dog’s meals AND I will show you just how easy it is to prepare your own dog’s fresh food meals!!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

There has been much written recently on canine brain function and cognition. I have even seen supplements on the market to ‘improve your dog’s brain function and memory’. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen the ingredients in these products useful, nor have I seen good research behind the ingredients.

It is difficult to ascertain if a dog’s memory or dementia problems are the same or similar as those in humans. A variety of things can cause dementia-like symptom in dogs. These can include poor diet, anxiety, stress, illness, pain and difficulty in sleeping. The first thing to do if you suspect your dog is having memory or cognition issues is to have a complete veterinarian check-up. This would include full blood work, parasite check, urinalysis and a complete hands-on examination that includes checking for pain or other physical symptoms or issues that may be causing odd or unusual behavior.

Below is a list of the Veterinary criteria for diagnosing canine dementia when physical examinations and lab work results are all normal:

• Disorientation – changes in spatial awareness, loss of ability to navigate around familiar obstacles, wandering behavior.
• Interaction changes – decreased interest in social interactions, petting, greeting, dependent or ‘clingy’ behaviors.
• Sleep/Wake cycle changes – restlessness or frequent waking during the night, increased sleep during daytime hours.
• House soiling – no longer lets owner know when it needs to go outside, indoor elimination, incontinence.

• Activity level changes – decreased exploration and response to things, people, sounds around the house, decreased grooming, decreased appetite; increased anxiety, including restlessness, agitation, and/or separation distress.

https://indoorpet.osu.edu/dogs/aging_pets/cds

A few studies have been done with oils and dogs and one study proclaimed coconut oil improved cognition. However, the same study used not only coconut oil in the dog’s diet, but also fish oil and corn oil. So, which of the oils proclaimed to do the trick and improve cognition? Additionally, the oils were used with a dry dog food, which lacks fresh nutrients and fresh fats, which are essential in a dog’s diet.  Dry dog foods contain poor animal protein sources and are high in carbohydrates which are detrimental to a dog’s health. This is because carbohydrates are very difficult for a dog to digest and can cause digestive issues.  Carbohydrates also convert to sugars which promote inflammation, tartar, tooth decay and tooth infection.

http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0049510

Another study with dogs showed that medium chained triglycerides (MCT oil) along with arginine (an amino acid) helped somewhat with cognition. However, these tests were run by a pet food company using laboratory dogs, and again, the dogs were fed a dry dog food. This caused me to ask how valuable or nutritious the dry dog food might be, as maybe the addition of any supplement or oil might be helpful. Additionally, the increased attention these dogs may have received during the study may have also helped their cognition as mental stimulation and exercise helps increase memory and alertness in both dogs and people.

https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/british-journal-of-nutrition/article/dietary-supplementation-with-mediumchain-tag-has-longlasting-cognitionenhancing-effects-in-aged-dogs/0E84D6219DA529EF107DF1E6636598BC

In humans, MCT oil has been used with some mild success, as the idea is, that high doses of MCT oil release ketones which help with memory. However, the results were not long term and the MCT oil were administered at high doses. Such high levels couldn’t be obtained by plain coconut oil or other MCT oils – at least not without using several tablespoons daily. Most of these studies were stopped due to gastrointestinal issues with the participants, and caution is given not to use these high doses if renal problems or diabetes is present. In dogs, the issue of pancreatitis becomes a factor. Also, MCT oils are very high in calories – about 115 calories per teaspoon – so imagine the calorie and fat load in several tablespoons daily.

https://www.petmd.com/blogs/nutritionnuggets/jcoates/2013/oct/coconut-oil-for-canine-cognitive-dysfunction-great-or-no-30953

The difficulty with trying to load dogs with fats (including MCT oils) is that this often results in pancreatitis. While humans may decide to try a ketone diet, trying it with dogs it is a completely different matter. Remember, dogs are carnivores, and even the NRC (Nutrition Research Council), the ‘gold standard for measuring and developing nutritional needs for dogs’ states dogs have no need for carbohydrates (grains, fruits, vegetables) and receive no nutritional benefits from them. What dogs DO need, are animal-based foods such as meat, organ meat such as kidney and liver, eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese, fish, fat (found in all of these animal-based foods), and calcium. In raw diets, the calcium is in the bone, and in home-made diets, we add 900 mg of calcium carbonate or calcium citrate per pound of food served. Dogs normally – in the diets they need – would eat a high protein, medium fat diet. To raise the calorie levels with fat means the dog would eat LESS protein (amino acids, which they need for organ health, skin, coat and immunity) and higher fat ratios. However, this would cause weight gain, gas, intestinal distress and possible pancreatitis. They do NOT benefit from this diet, and this is why it also doesn’t work for them in some of the suggested cancer diets I have seen on the internet. However, a home-made diet or raw diet will provide most of the nutrients that pet food companies and supplement companies recommend for good cognition and brain health. A good fresh food diet will provide the most help in restoring some cognition, and if fed early on, offer the best chance for good cognition through the dog’s life.

Mental and physical stimulus is also very important for senior dogs with cognition issues. Don’t forget to walk your dog often.  Make sure they get to go to parks to play and enroll them in dog classes. Our senior dogs also need to go out to urinate often as seniors dogs are more prone to urinary tract infections, which can cause a systemic infection which are very painful and also affect their ability to think clearly. Senior dogs often ask to go out less often due to arthritis pain, but remember, they do need to go out OFTEN – even if they aren’t asking to go out!

There are a few supplements that can help in SOME cases, but not all. Dementia and confusion can be caused by variety of issues and physical problems such as infections, liver and renal problems, and tumors, so it is very important to start with a full veterinarian work up that includes a complete blood panel and urinalysis. If all those areas are clear, then it MIGHT be helpful to try some supplements. However I would start by feeding your dog a fresh diet, raw or home cooked, to insure your dog is getting the highest quality nutrients.

Some supplements that may help include:

“’Acetyl L-carnitine’ is used for a variety of mental disorders including Alzheimer’s disease, age-related memory loss, late-life depression, thinking problems related to alcoholism, and thinking problems related to Lyme disease. It is also used for Down syndrome, poor circulation in the brain, cataracts, nerve pain due to diabetes, nerve pain due to drugs used in the treatment of AIDS, and facial paralysis.” Acetyl L-Carnitine also helps support the heart. I have seen several treats sold for pets that contain L-carnitine, however, it is Acetyl L-carnitine that seems to produce the best results.

https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-834/acetyl-l-carnitine

Fish oil. This is for the omega 3, mainly DHA, which helps brain function. Fish oil capsules (for the integrity of the omega 3) work best. I have also seen something called Gold DHA, which is made from algae. But to date, studies have shown it is not as effective as DHA from fish. Omega 3 is harder to find in the diet as it is located mostly in fish. But Fish Oil capsules (superior to bottled oils, as it is fragile and can be destroyed by heat, light or oxygen) contain good amounts of EPA and DHA and should be given daily. EPA and DHA also help with immunity and good skin and coat, and are renal, heart and liver protective.

I would also include B complex vitamins, including B12, vitamin E and vitamin D3. D3 is also thought to help with brain function and mental clarity. You can find all 3 of these, plus vitamins A and C, in the Berte’s Immune Blend or Berte’s Daily Blend. B vitamins help with neuro transmission in the brain and vitamin E is a great anti-oxidant.

So, to recap all I have said here, don’t count on a commercial pet food to handle or maintain good mental cognition in your dog. Many commercial pet foods use flax oil instead of omega 3 fish oil, which dogs can’t convert to a usable form (dogs must have animal-based sources of omega 3 – fish oils) and the pet food and supplement industry often use the wrong kind of carnitine – L-carnitine instead of Acetyl L-carnitine.

It is important to remember that the most important element in providing your dog the best nutritional value is a fresh food diet, raw or home-cooked! At the very least, if you must feed kibble, add fresh animal protein to your dog’s kibble – up to 50% of the diet if you can – with fresh foods such as ground meat (beef, turkey, chicken or pork), organ meat (liver and kidney), eggs and yogurt. Secondly, be sure to add fish oil capsules, the Berte’s Immune Blend (for the anti-oxidants such as E and C, for the D3, and especially the B complex). And lastly, if you notice cognitive loss in your dog and a medical evaluation shows no health issues, try Acetyl L-Carnitine and B-12. B-Naturals now carries Berte’s Brain Power Pack, which contains Acetyl L-Carnitine, Berte’s Immune Blend, Fish Oil Capsules, and Liquid B Complex with B12.

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

There has been a lot of articles, discussions and questions about taurine and dogs in the last year. Let’s take a look at taurine, what is it, what it does, what foods contain taurine, and is your dog getting enough its diet?

What is Taurine?

Taurine is an amino acid.  Amino acids are the ‘building blocks’ of proteins. While taurine is a non-essential amino acid, it is more of a ‘conditionally’ essential amino acid that is ESSENTIAL to our health. While humans and dogs can make smaller amounts of taurine in their bodies, it is not enough, so we have to get the additional taurine we need from the food in our diet. This smaller amount is synthesized endogenously in the liver from methionine and cysteine, which are two other amino acids. Not all proteins are equal and taurine is found mainly in animal-based proteins. Some plant proteins contain methionine and cysteine and can produce smaller amounts of taurine. Science has shown as humans and dogs age, we have less ability to make taurine in our bodies. This is why senior dogs need MORE animal-based protein.

What does Taurine do?

Taurine is thought to help with insulin regulation which is helpful for those with, or prone to, diabetes. It can reverse some cardiac issues, help with renal disease, reduce seizures in some cases, help with fatty liver disease, and appears to help with fat burning and weight loss. The more important of these for dogs, is that it helps with heart health and integrity, and can help prevent some renal disease and deterioration. It is also important for liver health as it helps reverse fatty liver.

http://www.lifeextension.com/magazine/2013/6/The-Forgotten-Longevity-Benefits-of-Taurine/Page-01

It has also shown to help prevent retinal damage and helps with problems of tinnitus (ringing in the ears) for both dogs and people.

Symptoms of taurine deficiency in dogs include:

• Excessive panting when not exercising
• Collapsing or fainting
• Blood in the urine
• Pain during urination
• Generalized pelvic and abdominal pain
• Moderate to severe blindness

https://wagwalking.com/condition/taurine-deficiency

What Food Sources contain Taurine that are best for my Dog?

Scallops and Mussels contain the highest amount of Taurine, but neither of these food sources are sensible or economical to include in your dog’s diet. The next highest meats for Taurine are dark meat turkey and chicken, followed by Pork, Lamb and Beef. Milk and milk products (yogurt, cottage cheese) are relatively low in Taurine and eggs, while they are abundant in all other amino acids, they contain very little taurine.

For more information on taurine amounts, check out this link:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2813349/

It is also important to know that cooking foods reduces the amount of taurine, but it also depends on the amount of water used when cooking. Fried and baked meat retained more taurine. If you are cooking your dog’s food, I would advise keeping any meat juices and liquid as most of the lost taurine will be in the juices.  Because high temperature cooking destroys most of the amino acids, if you do feed a dry dog food, I suggest adding some fresh meat to their diet, either lightly cooked or raw.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12864905

Are There Foods That Can Block Taurine in the Body?

The honest answer is, yes and no. There are no specific foods that block the uptake of taurine – at least from what is known to date – but certain foods CAN stop taurine from being absorbed due to fiber content. Dogs have a short and simple digestive tract and it is not designed to ferment food. In dogs, food stays in the stomach a long time and then shoots through the intestines quickly. In people, it is the opposite. Food remains in the stomach for a short time and then lingers in our complex intestinal tract for a much longer period of time. Food in both species – humans and dogs – processes and break down food in the stomach, and then the results are sent to the small intestine to absorb the nutrients. Dogs labor with fiber and it can block important nutrients from being absorbed. Some foods, especially grains, legumes and spinach contain high amounts of phytates. Phytic acid can block iron, zinc and calcium from being absorbed. This may also affect taurine, but more research is needed. Since dry dog food needs about 40% of these carbohydrates to maintain shelf life, I would be particularly concerned if that many carbohydrates were in my dog’s diet. Again, I would substitute some of the commercial food with fresh dark meat turkey, chicken, pork, beef or lamb to reduce the amount of carbohydrates and to insure more Taurine is added to the diet. In the 60’s and early 70’s many dogs suffered zinc deficiencies due to high phytate containing foods in dog food. (See chapter History of Dog Food, “Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs”.

http://marinretrieverclub.com/dog-dying-congestive-heart-failure/

How Do I Know if My Dog’s Diet has Enough Taurine?

If you suspect your dog may be low in taurine (see symptoms above), your veterinarian can check for a deficiency with a blood test. I would advise this if you recognize any symptoms in your dog that were listed above. Otherwise, I would suggest that you feed your dog a diet that is rich in taurine. How can you do that?

If you are feeding a raw or home-cooked diet, make sure you rotate proteins – at least 4 different proteins a week – and be sure to use dark meat turkey or chicken, pork, beef and lamb.  I mentioned earlier that dairy products and eggs contain very little taurine, but they are still good to add because they contain other good and important nutrients. If you cook your dog’s diet, keep the juices and try baking the meat rather than cooking with water (crock pot or boiling).

If you do feed a commercial dog food, whether it is canned or kibble, I would suggest substituting some of the commercial food with whole animal-based proteins such as dark meat turkey or chicken, beef, pork or lamb to insure enough taurine is getting into your dog’s diet. Avoid legumes, peas, spinach and high amounts of grains as these block the uptake of important minerals.

You can also add taurine to your dog’s diet, and also more importantly, to your cats diet. B-Naturals is about to add a Taurine supplement to their website, so stay posted!  It is a powder form and mixes easily with any food type. You can’t really overdose with taurine.  It is safe to add to any diet and helps the liver, eyes and heart, and helps with glucose maintenance for diabetes.

If your dog has heart issues, I recommend adding these supplements:

• Taurine
• Acetyl L-Carnitine
• COQ10 at 3 mgs per pound of body weight
• Fish oil capsules at one per 20 pounds of body weight
• Berte’s Immune Blend

We are coming into the heat of summer!
Please keep your dogs cool!
Watch their feet on hot pavement as they can blister easily!
And keep them indoors during Firework season!
Melatonin, Adaptil collars and Thunder Shirts can help with anxious or nervous dogs.
Happy 4^th of July to my American Friends! Enjoy these lovely summer days with your dogs!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

Summertime brings sunshine, beautiful flowers, and for all of us dog lovers, green lawns with regrettably, yellow and brown spots. How does this happen, and what can we do about it?

There are a host of products on the market used as additives or supplements to add to your dog’s food that claim to magically change your dog’s urine so it will not burn the grass. Unfortunately, this is impossible. It is not the pH or acidity of urine that kills the grass. Plus, you can’t change pH with diet effectively even if it was the cause – but it is NOT the cause).

Why does urine cause the grass to die? It is important to understand exactly what it is in dog urine. It contains some minerals and proteins, but it consists of urea (ammonia) and sodium (salt). Both ammonia and salt kill grass and any vegetation. There is NO way to remove these from your dog’s urine, at least not without killing your dog. The fact is, urine burns grass, whether from dogs, cats, people or any mammal. The only solution is to water the areas where you dogs eliminate daily. And even at that, there may still be some damage. Using small sprinklers or just hosing it down for several minutes is the most effective deterrent for lawn damage.

Another important topic is weed killers. NEVER use these on your lawn when you have dogs or cats. Most weed killers use chemicals that literally grow the plant to death, and many of these can cause lymphoma in dogs.

“A six-year study from Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine linked lawn pesticides to canine malignant lymphoma (CML). Based on questionnaire results from dog owners, the study found ‘specifically, the use of professionally applied pesticides was associated with a significant 70% higher risk of CML. Risk was also higher in those reporting use of self-applied insect growth regulators.’”

Another study found that weed killers that use 2-4-D herbicides are linked to bladder cancer in some breeds:

“A 2013 study concluded 2,4-D herbicides and other lawn chemicals make the risk of canine bladder cancer ‘significantly higher’. Certain breeds, including Beagles, Scottish Terriers, Shetland Sheepdogs, West Highland White Terriers, and Wire Hair Fox Terriers are more susceptible due to a genetic predisposition to bladder cancer.” https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267855/

Exposure to the chemicals can come from ingestion, inhalation, or contact with skin, and the amount of time needed to restrict pets from a sprayed area has not been determined.” https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23584031

So remember, keep your lawns watered, and please DO NOT use weed killers anywhere where you dogs can come in contact with them, either by breathing the fumes or walking where it has been applied. Sad news for those who love a lush lawn of San Augustine or Kentucky Blue grass, I know, but your pet will live longer and healthier!

And please, for those pesky brown spots on the lawn, don’t spend your time and money giving your dog a supplement to change their urine.  It won’t work! Water, water and water the areas daily!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

I finally took the time to research Cannabidiol oil (CBD) as to its effectiveness, specific to dogs. I have seen numerous claims on the internet (and HEY, if you see it on the internet, it must be true, right?) that it helps with pain, arthritis, cancer, seizures, anxiety, inflammation pain, and more.

I found one article that claimed it did all this, and that it also helps with pancreatitis and kills bacteria in dogs. Sounds too good to be true, right? Well, in fact, it is too good to be true. When I inspected the resources listed, I found the bulk of the studies were done in vitro. That means, in essence, cannabidiol oil was used on affected cells in a petri dish in a laboratory and the cells used were mice cells, NOT canine or human cells. It is encouraging that CBD oil may work that way, but there is still a long way to go to have it work orally. Some mice were injected with the oil with some good results, but again, it is via injection, not taken orally.

Another article stated that CBD oil was effective via injection for seizures, however in dogs, the liver removed all the good properties (first pass) and the anti-seizure property was lost if used alone. It did seem to help if it was given with other anti-seizure traditional seizure medications.

“To date, no report has appeared that states CBD possesses antiepileptic or anticonvulsant activity in humans or animals upon oral administration when it is the only drug administered.”

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/20255001_Pharmacokinetics_of_cannabidiol_in_dogs

Another website lists the potential side effects of CBD and recommends that you let your veterinarian know your dog is using CBD if they show any of the following symptoms:

• Dry Mouth:Your dog can’t tell you if they have dry mouth but it’s safe to say they might increase their water intake. Additionally, increased thirst could also be a sign of other serious problems, such as antifreeze or rodenticide poisoning, or conditions like diabetes.
• Tremors:Human patients with Parkinson’s disease have reported increased tremors at high doses of CBD. Tremors of any kind should be cause for concern in a dog.
• Low Blood Pressure:If your vet notices low blood pressure during your next wellness visit, let them know that you have been giving your dog CBD. Until then, check whether your dog seems overly tired or lethargic.
• Lightheadedness:Your dog won’t tell you if they’re feeling lightheaded, but they might seem disoriented or dizzy.
• Drowsiness:Pay attention to your dog’s sleeping patterns to see if there’s any change.

https://www.preventivevet.com/dogs/what-to-know-if-you-want-to-give-your-dog-cbd-cannabidiol

This same website goes on to say this about THC and dogs:

“It’s not that vets think marijuana products, either THC or CBD, are a panacea to all health problems for dogs and other animals. Instead, the lack of solid information about these drugs has created an unregulated environment where many pet owners are simply running the experiments themselves, sometimes with dangerous consequences. 

Dr. Diana Thomé is at least one vet who said she has seen more animals with marijuana (THC) toxicity. “Our clients come in almost daily asking us about the use of marijuana,” she explained to congress, “Legally, I can’t tell them anything … other than to say I can’t advise them to use it.”

Without study, vets can’t say whether it’s safe to give any amount of THC or CBD to certain dogs, what it might treat effectively, what the suggested dosage might be, or any other information that could help reduce preventable harm. “

Do NOT give your dog any cannabis products with THC!

“The veterinary community has long known that cannabis — specifically the chemical THC that gives users their high — is toxic to pets. Dogs appear to be even more susceptible, Pawlowski says, because they have more cannabinoid receptors.”

“However, veterinarians and researchers can’t determine the level of toxicity because cannabis still is listed as a Class 1 drug, which restricts its use even by researchers. What they do know is that cannabis can damage the neurological system in pets and can sometimes be fatal, and they fear they are just seeing the start of the problems.”

https://www.thecannabist.co/2017/08/28/dog-cat-marijuana-overdose/86845/

If you opt to use CBD oil for your pet, make sure IT IS LESS than .03 percent of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).

https://edmonton.ctvnews.ca/cases-of-pets-ingesting-pot-increasing-vet-clinic-1.3904430#_gus&_gucid=&_gup=twitter&_gsc=m3u7oaN

However, this isn’t all bad news. While there has been little research done to date on CBD oil (Hemp oil, WITHOUT THC), Colorado State University has started specific research just for dogs. They are currently accepting dogs that have at least two seizures a month and dogs with canine arthritis. This is excellent news, and hopefully soon we will know what types of CBD oil will work (or not) for dogs and how much to give them.

https://collegian.com/2017/12/csus-veterinary-teaching-hospital-researches-cannabinoid-use-to-treat-canine-diseases/

CSU recently finished their trial on osteoarthritis in dogs, and we are awaiting their results.

They also have a trial going on for Cannabidiol and Epilepsy:

http://csu-cvmbs.colostate.edu/vth/veterinarians/clinical-trials/Pages/efficacy-of-cannabidiol-for-the-treatment-of-epilepsy-in-dogs.aspx

So what you may read on miracles of CBD is only anecdotal to date. Research has not shown it to be the miracle fix, but more research is being explored. PLEASE do your research before trying CBD oil. If you choose to use it, make sure the oil is pure, organic and contains no or VERY LITTLE THC! Be VERY careful not to overdose! I might recommend using the brand CSU is using, as it is tested and safe:

http://www.appliedbasicscience.com

While the research doesn’t support the stories we have heard about the miracle of CBD oil in dogs, I will continue to be optimistic that the research that is being continued will show CBD oil to be helpful in some areas and that maybe they will be able to produce it in a manner that is more specifically helpful to dogs.

Past research with mice and rats does not always transfer over to dogs (or even people), so the results of the trials that are specific to dogs should bring us better answers! If you decide to go ahead and use it, please research it very carefully. Make sure the product is free of THC and let your veterinarian know immediately if your dog shows any of the side effects I listed above.

We are now into May! A great time of the year for fun outdoor activities with your dog. I always recommend long walks daily, and don’t forget to sign up for a Rally class, Nose Work class or the new Trick dog classes! While I always advocate for the best fresh food diet for your dog, don’t forget to exercise their physical bodies, but their brains as well!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

A confusing issue for many dog owners is the topic of high cholesterol in their dog’s blood panel results. This is an issue that cannot and should not be confused with the meaning of high cholesterol and its dangers in people. Today, people are concerned about reducing fat in their diets, exercising, keeping their weight down and taking medications to reduce cholesterol levels because cholesterol levels bring about very specific health risks. People want to reduce their chances of developing plaque in their arteries so they can keep their heart healthy.

For dogs, high cholesterol has a very different meaning! Dogs are carnivores and their digestive tracts are designed to eat plenty of animal fat. They need large amounts of animal fat to meet their physical needs for both energy and endurance. Dogs don’t develop plaque in their arteries; nor do they suffer harmful effects on their hearts from a high fat diet. Dogs can become obese from a diet that is too high in fat, from over feeding, or from getting little or no exercise. However, the fat does not affect their arteries or heart as it does in people, as we are omnivores. This does not mean we shouldn’t pay attention to high cholesterol readings in our dogs as they can give us good clues to other metabolic issues that may need further attention. Specific problems that can be the result of high cholesterol in a dog’s blood work can include:

Hypothyroidism

The thyroid gland helps in numerous ways, including hormone regulation and metabolism. When the thyroid isn’t working well, it can cause elevations in cholesterol, lipase, ALT, and cause a low white blood cell count. A thyroid panel blood test can show if the thyroid is low and medication can often bring these numbers back to the normal ranges.

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/40602.htm

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2097&aid=449

Diabetes

This disease can cause issues with fat metabolism, resulting in high cholesterol, among other elevated blood panel results, such as glucose.

http://www.essortment.com/canine-diabetes-symptoms-26793.html

Cushing’s Disease

This is when the adrenal gland is producing too much cortisol (cortisone). A high level of cortisol (which can also be caused by long term steroid use) creates dysfunction in processing fats. Due to this, dogs with Cushing’s disease (and long term steroid use) are more prone to pancreatitis.

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/cushings.html

Hyperlipidemia

Sometimes a high triglyceride count will be seen with high cholesterol. A few breeds, most commonly Miniature Schnauzers, have a genetic tendency to lipidosis or hyperlipidemia.

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&C=189&A=2660&S=0

All of these problems can show symptoms of skin problems, poor immune systems, weight issues and a more problematic issue of pancreatitis.

Pancreatitis

Pancreatitis is not caused by fat intake, but rather by issues that create an inflamed pancreas. Some of these health problems can be resolved with medication, but if they cannot, a low fat diet is needed. Here is a home cooked diet for dogs prone to pancreatitis:

http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/pancreatitis/

Another diet that is low in sugar, which is well suited for any of the above conditions, but especially diabetes or Cushing’s disease can be found at: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/low-glycemic/

More information on these health issues, along with other diet information can be found in my book, “Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs”.

It is very important to have yearly wellness checks on your dogs. These annual checks should include both annual blood work and a urinalysis. It is also important to know what the blood values mean in relationship to dogs. While many may mean the same things, there are some differences due to canine physiology and their nutritional needs as carnivores!

Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs, Revised: The Definitive Guide to Homemade Meals!      Lew Olson's newly revised edition is filled with an abundance of new topics and information. Whether you are new to home feeding or a seasoned raw feeder, have a senior dog or a new puppy, a pregnant mom or a toy breed, this book presents all the information you need to make the best nutritional decisions for your dog.

1. How can I be sure the diet is balanced?

That answer is easy enough! Just make sure to add 900 milligrams of calcium to the diet.  You can use carbonate, calcium citrate or ½ teaspoon of ground eggshells per pound of food fed to your home-cooked meals.  Design the recipes to be at least 75% animal-based protein and 25% low-sugar (low-glycemic) cooked and mashed carbohydrates.

For raw diets, feed half the diet in raw meaty bones and half in animal protein with a slight amount of liver or kidney added.

2. How much cooked or raw food should I feed my dog daily?

For adult dogs, we feed 2% to 3% of their body weight daily. For puppies, we feed 5% to 10% of their body weight daily and feed multiple meals (3-4) per day until age 4 to 6 months.

3. Are all meat types safe for my dog or are there some I should avoid?

Most meats are fine for dogs. I use USDA approved meats or pre-made frozen raw diets. However, there are a few exceptions. One of these includes pork. Pork is fine for dogs, but it does need to be frozen hard for three weeks to kill the trichinosis parasite. ALL meat suppliers in the United States do this before it ever hits the grocery shelves, so there is no problem with store-bought pork. HOWEVER, there are some meats that cannot be fed.  You CANNOT feed dogs raw wild boar or bear as these can contain the trichinosis parasite.  If you choose to feed these meats, you MUST make sure they have been hard-frozen for at least 3 weeks prior to feeding OR they MUST be fully cooked. Also, salmon from the Northwest must be cooked before feeding due to flukes that they can sometimes harbor. Just cook first or offer canned salmon, which is fine because it has been cooked prior to canning. When feeding venison, avoid the spine and the head (brain).

4. What are the benefits of feeding a raw or home cooked diet?

The benefits are really wonderful! The first is smaller and less odor stools. The second is a lack of, or VERY LITTLE, tooth decay, plaque or tartar. Tartar is caused by carbohydrates (grains, starches and fruit). Third, there is NO DOGGY ODOR! This simply goes away on fresh food diets! Lastly, you will find your dog has better muscling and far less fat!

5. How do I start a raw or home cooked diet?

The first thing is to get good directions and recipes. My book is a good way to start, “Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs”. It contains detailed directions and recipes. Or you can purchase my excellent videos! There are 3 of them. One is on Home Cooked Meals. It is $60 and contains lists, ideas, recipes and videos to help you prepare meals. The second is on Raw Diets, also $60. This video will help you with recipes and instructions on buying and preparing food for adults, puppies and toy breeds. Also available is my full seminar video for $199, “Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs”. This video not only includes the Home Cooked and Raw Diet Videos, but also has a chapter on the History of Dog Food, History of Feeding Dogs, Anatomy and Digestion of the Dog, Use of Supplements and How to Understand them, and two bonus chapters on Feeding Dogs with Cancer and Feeding Dogs with Renal Disease. These videos are on the Teachable site and there for you to use and view as long as you would like! The videos will help give you the confidence and courage to proceed and make sure you are successful!

I would also like to suggest you join K9Nutrition on Facebook where I, and several others, are available to help you with all your individual questions and concerns.

Once you get started, you will find out in a very short time how easy it is AND how fast you start to see the rewards! YOUR DOG will appreciate because fresh food is far tastier and healthier and they LOVE the variety! You will enjoy the smaller stools, no doggy odor, less vet visits and a calmer and more athletic dog! So GET STARTED TODAY!