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b-naturals dog nutrition news
Happy New Year! To start the year out, I wanted to put together list of websites that include articles and information on the most common health concerns and frequently asked questions that I receive from people. The two areas that I cover in this newsletter are nutrition and health issues. This is a good resource list to have handy, so I suggest saving this newsletter for future reference! It is very important to remember good nutrition is the basic cornerstone of good health, but knowing the symptoms, diagnosis and treatment of health problems and being able to catch them in advance, can help keep your dog healthier and happier longer! Nutrition What is the best diet to feed my dog? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/the-best-food-to-feed-your-dog-part-i/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/the-best-food-to-feed-your-dog-part-ii/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/the-best-food-to-feed-your-dog-part-iii/ What is a raw food diet and how do I feed it? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/raw-diet/ Are Raw Food Diets Safe? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/is-a-raw-diet-dangerous/ How much food should I feed my dog with a home-prepared diet? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/how-much-should-i-feed-my-dog/ Is too much protein a danger for dogs? (Not really, read below) http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/is-it-necessary-to-reduce-protein-in-the-diet/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/dogs-and-protein/ What about Puppies? Do they have special diet needs? Yes, in calcium and amounts, read more here: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/puppy-raw-diet/ What about Seniors? Do they have different needs? The answer is yes! They need more protein! Read about it here: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/feeding-puppies-seniors/ What about my Working Dog? What do you suggest for dogs who are involved in agility, schutzhund, obedience, herding and sledding? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/feeding-the-performance-dog/ What about Pregnant Dogs? What are their nutritional needs? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/nutrition-and-the-brood-bitch-december-2010/ What about cooked diets? How do I make these? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/cooked-diet/ Diets low in sugar is helpful for dogs with skin problems, allergies, thyroid problems, cancer and much more. Read about my low-glycemic diets here: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/low-glycemic/ Can feeding a fresh food diet get expensive? How can I save money and shop smartly? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/economy-and-feeding-your-dog/ What about carbohydrates? Are they good or bad and why? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/carbohydrates-good-or-bad/ How do I make sure my home-prepared diets are balanced and nutritionally correct? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/how-do-i-know-if-i-am-feeding-a-nutritionally-balanced-diet/ OK, I see how raw and home cooked diets are balanced. Should I add supplements? http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/basic-supplements-for-daily-use-in-the-dogs-diet/ My dog has a special health condition. Do I need to alter the diet or add specific foods for specific conditions? The following article is a link for recipes for a variety of different health conditions: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/diets-for-special-health-needs/ My Dog is TOO FAT! What should I do? http://www.b-naturals.com/Nov2004.php Health Out of all the common health issues, I receive more questions concerning urinary tract infections and skin and coat problems than any others, so I will start with these two issues. Urinary Tract Infections (UTI): Most often, UTIs are accompanied by struvite crystals, or less commonly, calcium oxalate crystals. The biggest mistake in treating this type of infection seems is trying various antibiotics and not using them long enough. It is important to do a sterile urine culture (done in house at your veterinarian) to find out what bacteria is present and causing the infection. This test tells the veterinarian which antibiotic is best to use for the bacteria present. Struvite crystals will accompany UTI's as bacteria make the urine pH high and this creates an environment struvites prefer. Getting rid the infection gets rid of the struvites! Read more here: http://vettechs.blogspot.com/2005/05/so-your-dog-has-struvites.html Skin and Coat Problems http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/skin-problems/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/skin-care-remedies-and-tips-2/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/allergies-itching-eye-staining-yeast-and-antibiotic-resistance/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/hot-spots-and-skin-irritations-november-2010/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/skin-care-remedies-and-tips-2/ Gastric Problems The following articles cover IBD, IBS, Colitis, diarrhea and vomiting. http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/irritable-bowel-disease-in-dogs-its-about-the-diet/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/frequently-asked-questions-digestion-and-gastric-problems/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/the-diarrhea-dilemma/ Arthritis and Inflammation http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/low-glycemic/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/joint-problems/ Pancreatitis http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1580&articleid=335 http://www.vetinfo.com/dencyclopedia/depancrea.html http://vetmedicine.about.com/cs/dogdiseasesp/a/pancreatitis.htm The following article includes easy-to-follow home-prepared recipes for Pancreatitis: http://www.b-naturals.com/Jul2004.php Hypothyroidism This article is on diet for dogs with Hypothyroidism: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/pancreatitis/ http://www.vetinfo4dogs.com/dthyroid.html http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/htm/bc/40602.htm http://www.thyroid-info.com/articles/dog-hypo.htm http://www.petshealth.com/dr_library/hypothyroiddogs.html Kidney and Renal Issues and Diet http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/pancreatitis/ Liver Issues and Diet http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/liver/ Heart Problems and Diet http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/heart-healthy-diet/ Cancer Diets http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/cancer-diet/ Supplement suggestions for dogs with cancer http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/cancer-dogs-and-supplements/ Important information on Tick Borne Diseases and Symptoms http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/tick-borne-disease-in-dogs/ Leptospirosis: Treatment and Symptoms This disease is more common than we think and it is important to understand the symptoms, proper diagnosis and treatment. http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/leptospirosis/ I hope you find these links helpful. I will try to update them yearly. We wish you and your Dogs a very Safe, Happy and Healthy 2012!
b-naturals dog nutrition newsWelcome to Part III of the series on Puppy Whelping and Rearing! In Part I, we talked about getting mom ready with good nutrition, the timing of breeding, finding quality puppy owners and the necessary whelping supplies you will need. In Part II, we talked about the pregnancy, getting ready for the big day, the things to expect and what to watch for, along with what to do once whelping starts, and ensuring the puppies' health. Now that the puppies are here, it is time to make sure that each of the puppies has a quality home lined up. As we mentioned at the beginning of Part I, it is ALWAYS important to look for responsible puppy owners during the planning of the breeding, at the time of breeding and when the first ultrasound is completed and pregnancy is determined. You want to make sure you have plenty of time to screen the new owners to insure each puppy is going to a good home. You want enough time to ask the right questions, help educate the prospective owners on how to feed, socialize, train and prepare for a new puppy. Puppies are certainly cute, but trying to find good homes for them after they are ready to go will make you a day late and a dollar short! You may find yourself desperate to place puppies and will not have the time do to what is needed to properly place them into quality homes. A good breeder is always there if needed. Not just at the time of placement, but throughout the puppy's life. A good breeder needs to be on call for any questions, concerns or resources. If you haven't taken the time to establish a good relationship with your new puppy owners, you will lose this opportunity! The Perfect Food for Puppies As mentioned in last month's newsletter, Part II, mother's milk is the perfect food for puppies. It is important to encourage and make sure all puppies are nursing frequently during the first 2 days. This helps to shrink the uterus naturally, expel any retained afterbirth and encourage the regular milk (white and thick) to come in after the colostrum (more watery, but necessary to help the puppies' immunity). Feeding the mother a diet high in fat (lamb, chicken with skin, fattier parts of beef and pork) helps this process. It is also important to offer her whole milk yogurt, goat's milk and eggs. This is a rich formula that helps bring down the mother's milk, offers calcium and gives the lactating mother energy. Feed her frequent meals throughout the day. Her need for calories goes up dramatically during lactation. She will need 3 to 4 times the amount of food regularly fed! Stimulus Environmental stimulus is important. Puppies are unable to maintain their own body heat for the first few days, so make sure the whelping area is warm and that the mother keeps them close. While the puppies' eyes will not open for 14-16 days, they also do not hear for the same period of time. Do get the puppies used to noise, I keep a radio or TV on, I talk to them as often as possible and even run the vacuum! You want to get them used to noise and human voices. I handle the puppies very gently several times each day so they are comfortable and secure with human touch. I start trimming nails when the puppies are young and try to do this task weekly until they go to their new homes. Their mother will appreciate this practice as well! When the puppies are able to see and hear well, they are already used to noise, including human voices, running water, doors opening and closing and even the louder noises like the vacuum. I keep toys of various textures, colors and shapes in the whelping box. I also keep the whelping box near a window so they can get sunshine and are used to daylight and nighttime. It is so IMPORTANT to raise your litter indoors, preferably in your bedroom! Lastly, it is important to keep littermates together until 9 weeks of age. Several skills are learned up to this age, including bite inhibition, learn leadership and gain confidence. Puppies that leave their littermates too soon often are nervous, bark more frequently, bite more, and are less responsive to training! All of these things mentioned are the critical parts of beginning socialization and are so important for their development. Weaning Warning: Do not attempt to wean the puppies until they are four weeks old. Before the puppies are four weeks old, they simply cannot digest or assimilate whole foods other than goat's milk, cultured yogurt and eggs! If you try to feed puppies whole foods prior to 4 weeks, it can result in allergies later on in life and causes a weakened immune system. Additionally, if you start feeding the puppies food, their mother will often discontinue cleaning up after them! Once the puppies are four weeks of age, I begin to supplement with foods. I generally start with a mixture of goat's milk, plain whole fat yogurt and eggs. You can use fresh goat's milk, cartons from the grocery store, or condensed canned goat's milk. The advantage of canned goat's milk is that it is fortified with Vitamin D. Canned goat's milk is condensed so be sure to mix it with equal amounts of water! I mix two cups of goat's milk to a ½ cup of yogurt and add two eggs to this amount. Add one teaspoon of Berte's Probiotic Powder, one teaspoon of Berte's Daily Blend and one capsule of EPA fish oil capsules per ten lbs of the total weight of the puppies. For example, if you have six puppies, all weighing approximately 3 pounds, add 3 fish oil capsules. Mix it well and serve. Serve twice daily. Should the puppies develop loose stools, I have found it helpful to add instant cream of wheat (prepared with hot water to make gruel) to the milk snack. This small amount of fiber will help firm the stools. The probiotics are to help keep stools firm with the change of diet by providing the good flora and fauna needed for digestion. The Berte's Daily Blend contains vitamin C, vitamin E, B vitamins, vitamins A and D and also some kelp and alfalfa. After a day or so of feeding this mixture, I add some ground meat to the mixture. You can use hamburger, ground pork, chicken or turkey. I also use green tripe at this stage. After the puppies have 'mastered' eating these foods (a day or so) you can begin to give them cut up chicken wings or backs in the evening. Pork neck bones are also a popular choice. By five weeks, they should be ready for four meals a day. If they are still nursing (and I hope so, I let mine nurse until they are ready to go home), monitor the amounts closely. For moms with more milk, a less weaning diet is needed. For moms reluctant to nurse or have less milk, more food will be needed. These four meals include: Goat's milk, egg and yogurt mix Muscle and organ meat mix Goat's milk, egg and yogurt Raw meaty bones The raw meaty bones can slowly get larger as the puppy grows. Cut the bones into smaller pieces until that point. I generally feed four meals a day until the puppies are about 4 – 5 months of age and then reduce the number of meals to 3 meals per day (one raw meaty bones, one muscle meat and organ meat and one goats milk, egg and yogurt snack). Puppies generally need to eat 5% to 10% of their body weight daily, but this can increase or decrease, depending on their growth stage and activity levels. You can find more detailed information on feeding puppies and additional recipes, in my book, "Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs". Puppies start teething about 4 months of age and this can be a painful time. Please pay attention to your puppy's teeth, and understand that when large teeth erupt they can lose their appetite, yet they and certainly continue their need for raw bones, toys and natural chewies. Good choices for chewies at this stage are bully sticks, dried esophagus and dried ligaments. Allowing your puppies to chew on these delights will certainly help their teething process! Socialization and Training! Be sure to encourage all your new puppy owners to enroll their new little charges into a good puppy kindergarten class and to follow up with regular positive motivational training classes! These classes are just as important for the new puppy owner because they will learn the good skills necessary to communicate well with their new puppy and it allows the puppy to get the socialization skills it needs, as well as learning how to ride great in a car! Socialization is crucial for puppies and is of primary importance between the ages of eight and fourteen weeks. Socialization during this time makes a lasting impact and helps form a healthy, well-behaved and adjusted puppy. Simple commands such as 'sit', 'down', 'stand' and 'come' are the easiest skills to train at this age. Book Recommendation for Understanding Dog Behavior I recommend the book, "Culture Clash" by Jean Donaldson, to help you better understand your puppy. She helps you understand how puppies and dogs think, and stop us from a shared 'error' of trying to relate 'human' motivation to dogs. Dogs are much more straightforward than people are and work well in a 'safe', positive environment that is consistent! Dogs do not feel 'guilt', nor do they use retribution, but can cower if our behavior is inconsistent or over bearing. Dogs need quiet, simple commands and work best with motivational techniques such as using food and lots of verbal praise! Please, please avoid 'dominance' techniques. Dogs do not understand this and it only teaches them fear and force. Dogs are quite willing to learn and do what we ask as long as we reward the good and learn how to handle unwanted behavior using distractions and other non-threatening techniques. Lastly, as a breeder, you need to be available throughout the life of each of your puppies. It is important that the breeder is there to offer advice on training, veterinarian care, house training, and that you always encourage all your puppy owners to enroll their charges in training classes, remind to keep the nails short, help with feeding and diet questions and continue to be present and available for them should any questions or needs arise! Breeders are responsible for every puppy they raise. This means from their birth to when they leave to start their new journey in life and throughout their life! Happy Holidays to Everyone! Here is to Good Health and Happiness for You and Your Dogs! Please don't forget, my book, "Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs." It makes a great holiday gift for any of your dog loving friends! Sharing good nutrition advice is one of the best gifts you can give any dog owner . . . and most importantly, the best gift they can give their dog!
b-naturals dog nutrition news'As Natural as Possible' Puppy Whelping and Rearing! Part II Counting down to the big day! It is always exciting knowing your new litter of puppies is about ready to make their way into the world, but there are things you need to do to ensure the smoothest possible delivery! Before anything else, line up these two things:
Three weeks before the puppies are due; I start the mother on Whelp Help or raspberry leaf. This herb helps with ease of birth and assists the milk to come in. I set up the whelping box early, about two weeks before the puppies are born, and I place the whelping box in my bedroom so I can be near my girl night and day. Usually she doesn't show much interest in the box until a day or so before delivery. Having a good, sturdy whelping box is very important. You want it to be large enough to accommodate your girl's size and the puppies. Having 'pig rails' along the side of the box is also important to ensure mom doesn't crush or lay on a puppy that might get behind her. Check out this website for some good pictures of various whelping boxes: http://www.mcemn.com/WB-feedback.html. If you are industrious and interested in making your own whelping box, this website includes construction plans for making your own whelping box: http://www.mcemn.com/WB-WhelpingBox.html A week before the puppies are due, it is highly recommended you make an appointment with your veterinarian to have a radiograph done. This will give you an idea of how many puppies are expected. If you know how many puppies are due to arrive, you can save yourself frantic calls to your vet in the middle of the night or an emergency trip to your vet! When you know about how many puppies are expected, you will be more confident knowing that when her contractions have subsided, she is done whelping. Once I know I am on the final countdown to whelping, I keep a few magazines and books handy and plan to watch some TV because the wait for whelping oftentimes feels like the longest part of the entire breeding process. When I think whelping is finally imminent and now is the time, I quickly realize the actual whelping day is still 2 days away! When contractions finally start, it is time to move your girl to the whelping box! I use a lot of cotton bedding. This can include towels, fleece, old comforters and mattress covers. Your mom may want to root around and make a bed, but cotton is good for the newborns and for traction. I have found that it is best to assist as little as possible; but it is important to be near her in case she needs help. When is it really time for puppies to be born? The hardest part of about whelping a litter is waiting for the puppies to arrive! Mother Nature has her own way of doing things, but there are a few tips that can help you determine the arrival date a little bit better. The general rule of thumb is that delivery will occur 63 days after breeding. However, this can vary if you have done multiple breedings or had frozen semen implant surgery. Multiple breeding dates give multiple due dates. What is especially important with multiple breedings is that you get your girl in for a check-up if she has gone past 63 days from the last breeding and has not begun to whelp. You want to make sure there are healthy fetal heartbeats and everything is going smoothly. Frozen implant breeding generally occurs 60 days after implant, so again, monitor your girl and know the date of the implant surgery! If she goes too far past her due date, get her to your veterinarian! Then there are those females who like to keep you guessing and may deliver anytime between 60 and 65 days! Occasionally, a small litter or a single puppy litter may not induce contractions. This can bring on other challenges. If this is the case, knowing the estimated due date can be especially important because if she goes too far past her due date, it may mean a caesarian section is required. While exact delivery dates cannot be predicted with 100% accuracy, you can do well to gauge the timing from the breeding date, breeding type and the size of the litter expected. Regardless of the type of procedure used for fertilization, the most accurate and best way to determine the actual due date is to do progesterone tests prior to breeding and to know the actual date your girl ovulated. Another good method for determining whelping is close is to take the bitches temperature three times a day the week before the expected due date. When delivery time is within 24 – 36 hours, the rectal temperature should drop to at or below 98 degrees. It is important to take her temperature at the same time each day and record the results in a flow chart. Most of the time the temperature will stay around 100 to 101, and while it may occasionally drop to 99; temperature drop due to hormone change is much more dramatic. Her temperature should go down and stay down for several hours. If you are not diligent with checking her temperature on regular intervals, you can miss this drop. Once your girl's temperature has dropped or you are within 2 days of her due date, it is time to stay home with her around the clock! A great website for taking your girl's temperature and using a chart is here: http://www.debbiejensen.com/temp_chart.html . What else can I expect? You may see behavioral changes occur in your girl. Behavior changes vary from bitch to bitch. Some may pant and look somewhat distressed for two to three days while others appear to be very 'nonchalant' up to the time of the first whelp being born. Behavior changes may also vary if it is the bitches first litter or her second or third. Experienced moms may act differently than new moms. Some may vomit up their last meal while others may eat meals up to and during delivery if they are offered food. Some other common signs you can watch for include dilated eyes, panting, restlessness, frequent changing of positions, refusing a meal, digging and tearing paper or bedding and frantically trying to find a 'safe and acceptable' spot to have the puppies. New moms might act desperate to go outside because they may be confusing contractions with the urgency to have a bowel movement. Some bitches do not want you to watch them and others may need to cling to your side. It is important that you pay attention to the signs they give you so you know how to be there for them. Below are some websites that provide more information and go into further detail and description of the various signs of labor: http://www.dog-health-guide.org/whelpingsigns.html http://www.dogtrainingsite.net/whelpingnewbornpup/labor_and_whelping.htm What to watch for: When your girl is close to delivery, maybe a few days away, you may see she is excreting a clear discharge. This is normal. However, if there is a green, red or dark yellow discharge, it is time for a trip to your veterinarian as this is a warning sign that can mean there is an infection, a loss of a puppy due to a detached placenta, or some other kind of distress. Do not hesitate. Get your girl to the vet! If your bitch has hard contractions for more than an hour with no sign of delivery, it is another sign of distress and you need to get her to a vet immediately! It is important to know the difference between a normal contraction and a distressed or hard contraction. When she starts to have contractions, she may push with her feet, grunt or turn to look at her side. This reaction is normal if she is having mild contractions. Hard contractions are obvious! You can see the muscles ripple on her sides and there is a distinct 'compression' in her loin area. Another warning sigh is if your girl goes more than two hours with contractions and no puppy is born. If you see these signs, please get her to your veterinarian immediately! For more information on signs of trouble and what to do, go to this website: http://labbies.com/reproduction3.htm. Once whelping starts: Once whelping begins, you want to make sure you capture the birth records. I keep detailed records of birth order, sex, breech or head presentation, weight, and any other distinct characteristics about the birth and the puppy. This is when having an experience friend can come in handy! You want to make sure the mother knows to remove the birth sac. Do not assume this is instinctual! You may need to assist with this and with tying off the umbilical cord. For more information on typing off umbilical cords, go to this website and watch this YouTube video: http://www.howtodothings.com/pets-animals/how-to-remove-umbilical-cords-from-puppies http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-60-G54YnoQ During whelping, I offer the mother a selection of goat's milk, yogurt and vanilla ice cream. She may or may not accept it, but these foods offer energy and calcium and help with contractions. Try to get the newborns nursing right away because this also helps with contractions and stimulates milk let down. There can be a fine line between trying to do too much or too little. In the past, I used heating pads and/or heat lamps to try to keep the puppies warm, but I have learned from experience that when I do NOT use these, the puppies stay closer to the mom, nurse more frequently, and in turn help mom produce more milk. I keep the room temperature over 70, but not much warmer than that. The normal boy temperature of a newborn puppy is much lower than the mother's body temperature, usually at about 94 – 96 degrees. Most of us think it is higher than mom's is and we oftentimes end up overheating the puppies. The first rule of thumb for newborn puppies is to know they need warmth and quality groceries. If puppies chill, it is imperative to warm them immediately! To do this, I have placed them in my shirt to share my body heat. You can also use a heating pad, but if you do, please keep it on low and cover the pad with two thicknesses of towels. I put a heating pad at the bottom of a laundry basket, cover it with a towel and then place a towel across the top. Having a laundry basket set up this way is also a great way to rotate puppies if mom is nursing a large litter. However, if you do this, you have to check the heat in the basket often as puppies can over heat and dehydrate easily. Ensuring puppy health: Once your litter is on the ground, it is important to make sure they are healthy and stay healthy! Healthy puppies twitch and move. Weak puppies stay stationary and whine or cry a great deal. If you have puppies that whine or do not move much, be sure to consult your veterinarian right away! Don't wait or hesitate! Colostrum is the first food for the puppies and the mother will produce this for one to two days. Her regular milk will be whiter, thicker and more profuse when it comes in. If the mother does not have enough milk to feed her puppies or the puppies appear to be dehydrated, you will need to supplement feed the puppies. The best method for doing this is tube feeding. You will need to have your veterinarian show you how to do this. You can bottle feed the puppies, but it takes much longer and if you are dealing with weak puppies, you may find they have difficulty with bottle-feeding. This 'YouTube' video is a good one to watch. It shows a veterinarian demonstrating how to tube feed puppies. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIKWr7yRU2g. I make my own puppy formula, however your veterinarian will have puppy formulas you can purchase if you want to go this route. The best food in the world to feed puppies less than four weeks of age is their own mother's milk as it is "complete, balanced," and is the most nutritious food for the puppies. The milk from a nursing female canine is higher in fat and protein than both cow and goat's milk. It contains all the nutrients puppies need and in it is all in the proper balance. A young puppy's digestive tract is designed to digest this whole food perfectly. Until a puppy is four weeks of age, their digestive system is not properly equipped to digest any other whole food. However, occasionally there are circumstances that arise where it is not possible to feed them mother's milk until they are four weeks of age. If this happens, it will be necessary to feed them food other than mother's milk. This can happen because the mom has a lack of milk production, the litter is too large for the mom's milk supply or the mom has an illness or dies. While it is impossible to reproduce mother's milk exactly, you may be faced with a situation when it is not possible to feed mother's milk. In this situation, the food substituted should be as close to it as possible. Below is a recipe that comes as close as you can get! Recipe: Mother's milk replacement formula for puppies up to four weeks of age: * One pint of goat's milk. This can be either goat's milk fresh in cartons from the store or evaporated goat's milk in cans. (If evaporated, be sure to dilute as directed with water) * Two egg yolks * Two EPA Fish Oil capsules * 1/2 teaspoon Berte's Ultra Probiotic Powder * Four to six tablespoons whole milk plain yogurt The egg yolks offer the extra protein that is needed. The EPA Fish Oil offers the extra fat and Omega-3 fatty acids, and the Ultra Probiotic Powder and yogurt provide the beneficial bacteria needed for proper digestion. Be sure to mix the mixture well and serve it to the puppies warm (about body temperature). Next month, please join us for Part III of 'As Natural as Possible' Puppy Whelping and Rearing! — The puppies are here, now what? In the meantime, we want to wish you all a Wonderful and Happy Thanksgiving!
b-naturals dog nutrition newsI started to write an article on 'natural' puppy whelping and rearing, but quickly realized I incorporate both natural and traditional practices to achieve the best results and success. Good animal husbandry includes what is safest and what works most efficiently. In my years of puppy whelping and rearing, I have found you need both methodologies to accomplish this. In this newsletter, I have compiled some of my best tips and ideas for successful whelping and rearing and hope you find them useful and helpful. Important Notes: Breeding dogs and raising puppies is not for the faint of heart! Before you embark on breeding and puppyhood, I recommend the following:
Additionally, there are some important ethical things to consider.
Nutrition and the Importance of Pre- and Post Natal Supplements The best success for a healthy litter is starting out with a healthy and happy mother. This starts with a quality diet and some supplements to help regulate hormones and prevent nutrition-related birth defects. I always recommend a fresh food raw diet that is full of variety because raw foods offer the highest bioavailable nutrients. By providing a variety of meats and animal-based proteins, you insure your dog gets all the nutrients they need. I recommend using at least four types of meat in any diet, such as chicken, beef, pork and lamb. Other choices can include turkey, rabbit, wild game meat such as elk and venison and fish, such as canned mackerel, salmon or sardines. Not canned tuna, as is does not contain steamed bones and the mercury count is higher. The supplements I suggest include vitamin E, vitamin C with bioflavonoids, B vitamins, vitamin D and vitamin A. Vitamin D helps with the uptake of calcium, so it is a necessary vitamin during pregnancy and lactation. The Bertes Daily Blend is a convenient source for all these vitamins and it contains kelp and alfalfa for beneficial phytonutrients and trace minerals. Also important are omega 3 fatty acids. Fish Oil capsules are a great source for the omega 3 fatty acids. Vitamin E and omega 3 fatty acids are essential for hormone regulation, which helps with fertility. Fish oil also helps with neonatal brain and eye development. Lastly, Probiotics are important because they help keep the good flora and fauna bacterium balanced in her digestive tract.
It is very important to provide the nutritious diet and needed supplements from the moment you know you are planning to breed your girl, not from the time you do the actual breeding. You should feed normal rations up until the last 3 weeks of pregnancy and even at that point, you will only increase the amount of found by ½ of the amount of the regular diet. Then two weeks before whelping time, I also start giving my girls goats milk and plain yogurt once or twice daily.
Timing, Ovulation and Success! Timing is everything when you want to insure pregnancy. I always advocate using progesterone tests to determine when the timing is just right whether you are doing a natural breeding, using fresh chilled semen, or an AI with frozen semen. Timing is the essence to ensure proper fertilization. No matter what the quality or amount of the semen, if the timing is off you have wasted your time. There is about a 48-hour window of fertility and running a few progesterone tests will insure a much better chance of achieving your goal. As soon as I notice color, I run a baseline test at about 5-7 days into the heat cycle and continue every other day until my veterinarian tells me the time is right. One breeding at the right time can work with two at the very most. Remember, you have a 48-hour window! Semen can live for several days fresh and 2-5 days chilled or thawed frozen.
Now is the anxious time to sit, wait and hope! At 22 to 28 days past the breeding, I take my girl to my veterinarian to have an ultrasound done. Fetal heartbeats can be detected at this early stage. Once I know the goal is been accomplished, I keep my girl from stress and travel. At about 8 week's into the pregnancy, I may have a radiograph done to get an approximate idea of the number of puppies present. At week 7, I set up her whelping box in my bedroom (always keep them close!) and start letting her get used to it by dressing it up with bedding and some of her favorite toys and chews. I make sure I have an available veterinarian to help me with any problems and a friend or two who will be able to help with the whelping!
A few days before my girls are due to whelp, I purchase a DAP collar and put it on them. This type of collar is made with pheromones from lactating bitches and it helps to calm her, helps build acceptance for the upcoming puppies and helps with milk production. I have found these collars available at most Pet Smart and Pet Co stores. You can also purchase them online.
Whelping Supplies The following is not a complete list, it is a useful guide and does include most of the essential items you will want to have on hand.
Thermometer: The thermometer helps determine whelping time. I take my girl's temperature twice a day during the week prior to the whelping date. When her temperature drops down to or below 98 degrees, the puppies will be coming within 24-36 hours! It is very helpful to keep a flow chart on this information!
Bath and Hand Towels: These are for the whelping box and for drying newborn puppies!
Heating Pad and Laundry Hamper: In the event the puppies start coming fast, the laundry basket is a place to stow them as Mom does her work and the heating pad keeps them warm. It is very important to make sure the heating pad is at LOW and is covered with a towel or two. You do not want to burn the puppies!
Bulb Syringe: The Bulb Syringe is used to remove any excess moisture from the newborns nose and mouth, if needed.
Hemostats, Dental Floss and Dull Scissors: I use the hemostat to clamp the umbilical cord and the dental floss to tie off the cord. Then I use dull scissors to cut the cord once it is tied.
KY Jelly and Latex Gloves: These two items are useful if the birth canal gets dry or you need to help a puppy out. NEVER attempt to pull a puppy out without good instruction on how to do so from your Veterinarian!
Large Plastic Bags, Paper Towels and Disinfectant: The plastic bags come in handy for disposing of soiled items. The paper towels and disinfect are useful for keeping things clean as you go.
Notebook, Pen and Many Colors of Rickrack or Ribbon! The notebook is to log times of birth, sex, weight and anything notable about the birth. The colored ribbon is to put on the puppies so you can identify each one.
Non-Alcohol Baby Wipes: These are used to clean the puppies and to help stimulate them to eliminate the first few days. You will find these very helpful if you have a big litter or a mom who doesn't do such a great job cleaning her puppies)
French Catheter Tubing, 10 CC Syringe, Lactates Ringer Solution, Needle and Tubing: These are needed for the more sophisticated tasks, but may be necessary if you plan to raise the litter. The French tubing and syringe are for tube feeding, if necessary. The ringers, needle, and syringe are for administering subcutaneous fluids to the puppies, if needed. You will need Veterinarian's assistance to learn how to do tube feeding or give subcutaneous fluids. Be sure you ask your veterinarian for assistance so you can learn how to do these before the litter comes!
Calcium and Energy: Both of these are very important during labor and whelping. To make sure my girl gets both, I give her plain whole milk yogurt, goat's milk and vanilla ice cream!
And Don't Forget YOU! . . . Coffee pot, snacks, a good book, a charged cell phone and a list of important phone numbers for your friends, your veterinarian, and the stud dog owner.
We will continue with Puppy Whelping and Rearing next month and will cover 'The Time is Here', 'Whelping the Litter', 'Feeding Mom Post Whelping and Lactation' and 'Puppies Need Groceries and Warmth to Survive!' I hope you have enjoyed this part and I look forward to sharing more with you next month!
b-naturals dog nutrition newsWhen a dog has ongoing symptoms of diarrhea, gas and occasional vomiting, this is often diagnosed as Irritable Bowel Disease (IBD). The best description of this is that the lining of the intestinal tract becomes inflamed. This causes the food to shoot through the digestive tract, which in turn, forces the food to pass without being digested well. The diagnosis will occur when symptoms of diarrhea, upset stomach and weight loss have continued for several weeks or months and other causes have been ruled out. Other causes of long-term diarrhea may include the following: 1. Internal parasites, such as whipworm, hook worm, giardia or coccidia 2. Bacteria overgrowth, including helicobacter or SIBO (small intestinal bacteria overgrowth) 3. Addison's disease, an adrenal disorder due to low cortisol 4. Ulcers It is recommended you take a stool sample to your vet and have a complete wellness checkup done on your dog. If the cause is not diet related, it could be a variety of things. This could include parasites, bacteria and/or inflammation of the intestinal lining.
Parasites Parasites can be a common cause of diarrhea so it is important to rule these out first with your veterinarian. Causes can be roundworms, whipworms, hookworms, coccidia and giardia, to name a few. Once parasites are identified, treatment usually clears up the diarrhea.
http://www.hartz.com/Dogs/ArticlePreview.asp?Animal=1&Article=93&Topic=3
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/giardia.html
Small Intestinal Bacteria Overgrowth (SIBO)
Small Intestinal Bacteria Overgrowth (SIBO) is caused by a bacteria overgrowth that is becoming more common in dogs. This problem creates large, gassy stools, weight loss and often appetite loss.
http://www.upei.ca/cidd/Diseases/GI%20disorders/small%20intestinal%20bacterial%20overgrowth.htm
http://shilohgtf.com/S.I.%20Bacterial%20Overgrowth%20Syndrome.htm
Other causes of diarrhea to rule out include:
Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI)
EPI is a condition where the pancreas does not secrete the proper enzymes to digest foods. This is common in German Shepherd Dogs, but is seen in other breeds as well. Testing is needed to determine and confirm the disorder and prescription enzyme medications are needed for treatment. Like SIBO, EPI has large stools with odor.
Symptoms of EPI include INCREASED appetite, fluffy, very smelly, greasy, gray colored stools, loss of weight, gas, loud stomach noises, etc. The dog's pancreas does not produce enough digestive enzymes to break the food down and therefore no matter how much they eat, they cannot digest their food. Untreated, weight loss happens quickly and can lead to starvation and death.
http://www.healthypets.com/expaine.html
http://www.copypastearticles.com/article/2392/epi-in-the-gsd/
http://www.entirelypets.com/expaine.html
Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (HGE)
With HGE, there is bloody diarrhea, which is often red and clotted in appearance. Vomiting and lethargy can develop later. A high packed cell volume (PCV) in a blood panel will confirm the diagnosis. Toy breeds are more at risk, but HGE has good recovery outcomes.
http://vetmedicine.about.com/cs/dogdiseasesh/a/HGEindogs.htm
http://www.pets.ca/encyclopedia/hemmor_gastro_dog.htm
http://www.thedogplace.org/Articles/articles167.htm
When all the above is ruled out, your veterinarian will oftentimes refer you to a specialist who will recommend a series of tests which can include using an endoscope or doing exploratory surgery to obtain a biopsy. These results are to determine which part of the intestinal tract is involved and what degree of inflammation is present. At this point, several medications are recommended. These include steroids, immunosuppressant drugs, antibiotics and flagyl (metronidazole), or other drugs to slow motility (lomotil)
Medications
These drugs tend to mask the symptoms and do not address or treat the problem. Steroids will bring back the appetite and help control inflammation, but long term use of prednisone and other steroid drugs have numerous negative side effects that include frequent urination, diarrhea, GI disturbance, ulcers, pancreatitis, renal and liver problems, diabetes, Cushing's Disease, thinning hair, pancreatitis, muscle wasting, bone thinning and changes in behavior.
Immunosuppressant drugs can cause bone marrow loss, anemia and a permanent loss of tears in the eye, causing dry eye.
Metronidazole is an antibiotic, with some anti-inflammatory side effects. However, this drug is processed through the liver and long term effects can cause neurological disorders and it does destroy the natural flora and fauna in the system. Tylan is another antibiotic used that also has anti-inflammatory effects but using antibiotics; long term can destroy the good bacteria in the digestive system and lead to antibiotic resistance.
Diet recommendations often include prescription dry diets of the hydrolyzed protein type, which claims to be more easily digested.
I find it amazing that when a dog's digestive tract is inflamed and the dog is in a weakened condition, the treatment is to offer harsh drugs that reduce the immune system and have a myriad of harsh side effects. On top of that, a poor food source that is heavily processed and high in fiber is included. Besides offering poor nutrition, high fiber diets continue to irritate and keep a dog's digestive tract inflamed. Dogs are carnivores and therefore it is easier to digest animal protein and fats. Food spends more time in a dog's stomach and then speeds through their short and simple digestive tract. Humans, on the other hand, have a longer digestive tract, designed for longer transit time. Dogs labor tremendously trying to digest diets high in fiber. While high fiber will remove moisture in the large intestine and produce firmer stools, the intestinal tract remains inflamed and continues to cause spasms and creates poor digestion.
Rather than using immunosuppressant drugs and high power antibiotics that strip the digestive tract of good flora and fauna bacteria and cause further damage the digestive tract, ideally, a diet change would be the first treatment of choice! This diet would never be a dry food diet such as kibble, which is more irritating to a dog's digestive tract. Instead, this diet would be a moist diet, high in good quality animal proteins and fats. A small amount of carbohydrates would be useful in a cooked diet for a fiber source. In a raw diet, the bones act as the fiber, which keeps stools firm.
Keeping stools consistently firm isn't the main part of the'healing' process, but it makes the human owners more secure when they see their dog's stool look more like their own. Canines in the wild often have loose stools. This is not a sign of being unhealthy or having an illness as long as they are digesting and utilizing the food consumed. Diarrhea now and then is not a big problem; it is projectile or liquid diarrhea for more than a day than cause dehydration. The idea is to reduce the inflammation in the intestinal tract, which puts the digestive tract back into good health and allows for the proper nutrition of food. My best advice is to look at the overall health of your dog. What is the condition of the skin and coat? Are they at a healthy weight? Are their stools consistent? Pay less attention to the stool and pay more attention to their coat, skin and weight for signs of recovery and good health.
Diet Recommendations
If you prefer a cooked diet, I recommend the low fat, low glycemic diet. This diet is 75% animal protein and 25% low glycemic (low sugar) carbohydrates. I would use a variety of proteins, such as beef, chicken, turkey and pork. Remove the chicken skin and trim extra fat from the other meat choices. You may also use low or nonfat yogurt and cottage cheese and egg whites, as they are also low fat. Low glycemic vegetables include broccoli, zucchini, cauliflower, green beans and dark leafy greens. For more recipes, see my newsletter on Low-Glycemic Diets . You can also get more detailed information in my book, "Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs."
In raw diets, I suggest using a menu of half raw meaty bones and half muscle and organ meat. For raw meaty bones, I suggest skinless chicken necks, turkey necks and pork neck bones. For the muscle/organ mix, I would use low fat hamburger, white meat chicken (no skin), nonfat yogurt or cottage cheese and wild game (venison, elk) which is naturally lean. More fat can be introduced to the diet later, but while the digestive tract is healing, higher fat diets should be avoided.
For both home cooked or raw diets, it may be best to start with three or four smaller meals per day for the first few weeks. Additionally, adding the supplements below will help during the transition of the diet and help heal the digestive tract.
Supplements
I recommend three main supplements for dogs with IBD and gastric problems. These include:
L-Glutamine is an amino acid that is helpful in healing the lining of the digestive tract. This supplement helps maintain muscle mass and helps healing after surgery or an injury. The recommend dose is 500 mg per 20 lbs of body weight daily.
Berte's Ultra Probiotics are a blend of beneficial bacteria, which are typically found in the digestive tract. These probiotics contain the good bacteria the digestive tract needs for proper digestion. During times of stress or illness, this natural bacterium can be depleted. Adding these probiotics to the diet, twice daily with meals, is helpful in restoring the flora and fauna needed for proper digestion and maintaining a strong immune system.
Berte's Zymes – Animal Based Enzymes:
Animal-based enzymes include pancreatin and pancrealipase. They help predigest fats in the stomach so that when food is released into the small intestine, less strain is put on the liver and pancreas. The fat is better digested for easier passage through the small intestine. This leads to better formed stools.
This supplement offers all three of the above suggested supplements (L-Glutamine, Probiotics and Animal Enzymes), as well as GAGs to help heal the gut, and ginger to help prevent nausea.
Yucca is a natural steroidal herb that helps control inflammation. It MUST be given with food and at no more than 1 drop per ten pounds of body weight.
Dimethylglycine is an amino acid recommended to help support proper immune response and glucose metabolism. For dogs with allergy problems, this supplement has been found to be beneficial in helping the immune system. This supplement also helps support skin and heart health, as well as proper nerve and brain functions.
You can find more information on this subject in both my newsletters Gastric Problems and FAQ for Digestion and Gastric Problems Newsletter:
Fall is on its way! We are wishing for cooler weather everywhere, some rain for Texas and dry weather for the Eastern Coast.
Hugo and Chloe Puppies taking a snooze!
b-naturals dog nutrition newsA confusing issue for many dog owners is the topic of high cholesterol in their dog's blood panel results. This is an issue that cannot and should not be confused with the meaning of high cholesterol and its dangers in people. Today, people are concerned about reducing fat in their diets, exercising, keeping their weight down and taking medications to reduce cholesterol levels because cholesterol levels bring about very specific health risks. People want to reduce their chances of developing plaque in their arteries so they can keep their heart healthy.
For dogs, high cholesterol has a very different meaning! Dogs are carnivores and their digestive tracts are designed to eat plenty of animal fat. They need large amounts of animal fat to meet their physical needs for both energy and endurance. Dogs don't develop plaque in their arteries; nor do they suffer harmful effects on their hearts from a high fat diet. Dogs can become obese from a diet that is too high in fat, from over feeding, or from getting little or no exercise. However, the fat does not affect their arteries or hearts as it does in people, as we are omnivores. This does not mean we shouldn't pay attention to high cholesterol readings in our dogs as they can give us good clues as to other metabolic issues that may need further attention. Specific problems that can be the result of high cholesterol in a dog's blood work can include:
Hypothyroidism
The thyroid gland helps in numerous ways, including hormone regulation and metabolism. When the thyroid isn't working well, it can cause elevations in cholesterol, lipase, ALT and cause a low white blood cell count. A thyroid panel blood test can show if the thyroid is low and medication can often bring these numbers back to the normal ranges.
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/40602.htm http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2097&aid=449
Diabetes
This disease can cause issues with fat metabolism, resulting in high cholesterol, among other elevated blood panel results, such as glucose.
http://www.diabetesindogs.net/dog-diabetes-symptoms.html http://www.essortment.com/canine-diabetes-symptoms-26793.html
Cushing's Disease
This is when the adrenal gland is producing too much cortisol (cortisone). A high level of cortisol (which can also be caused by long term steroid use) creates dysfunction in processing fats. Due to this, dogs with Cushing's disease (and long term steroid use) are more prone to pancreatitis.
http://www.kateconnick.com/library/cushingsdisease.html http://www.canismajor.com/dog/cushings.html
Hyperlipidemia
Sometimes a high triglyceride count will be seen with high cholesterol. A few breeds, most commonly Miniature Schnauzers, have a genetic tendency to lipidosis or hyperlipidemia.
http://www.weir.net/~lglass/canine-hyperlipidemia.htm http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&C=189&A=2660&S=0
All of these problems can show symptoms of skin problems, poor immune systems, weight issues and a more problematic issue of pancreatitis.
Pancreatitis
Pancreatitis is not caused by fat intake, but rather by one of these issues that creates an inflamed pancreas. Some of these health problems can be resolved with medication, but if they cannot, a low fat diet is needed. Here is a home cooked diet for dogs prone to pancreatitis: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/pancreatitis/
Another diet that is low in sugar, which is well suited for any of the above conditions, but especially diabetes or Cushing's disease can be found at: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/low-glycemic/
More information on these health issues, along with other diet information can be found in my book, "Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs".
It is very important to have yearly wellness checks on your dogs. These annual checks should include both annual blood work and a urinalysis. It is also important to know what the blood values mean in relationship to dogs. While many may mean the same things, there are some differences due to canine physiology and their nutritional needs as carnivores!
We hope you all had a very safe and Happy 4th of July and hope everyone is enjoying their summer weather! Please be sure to keep your dogs indoors during the heat and don't forget to provide plenty of fresh water around the clock!
Summertime and the Snakes!
In Texas, we are having a terrible drought, so I have been doing a lot of watering of our lawn and flowerbeds around the house. Unfortunately, the water has attracted snakes; specifically, the venomous Copperhead. We have been able to remove them as we have seen them, but last week Nibbler, our year old Rottweiler, saw one on our back porch and decided to pick it up to try and bring it into the house. Unfortunately he got bit in the mouth. After he got bit, I quickly brought him into the house, called my vet (this was about 11 PM) and started him on 50mg of Benadryl. I also gave him some tramadol because I knew he needed something for pain. While NSAIDs work best, I didn't have any available. I repeated the Benadryl dosage every 4 hours throughout the night and I kept a very close eye on him.
Please note, if this had been a water moccasin or a rattlesnake bite, immediate emergency veterinarian care would have been required as these bites are much more lethal and can cause skin and tissue damage.
The morning after! The swelling remained for about 2 days, but he was fine after that with no other effects!
Nibbler, two days later. All was well!
For more information on snakebites and dogs, including treatment, and always get immediate veterinarian treatment is needed for any snakebite: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1677+1681&aid=478 http://siriusdog.com/dog-snakebite-first-aid-field-dog.htm http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=2111
b-naturals dog nutrition newsSpecial Needs Request for the Texas 200 Rottweilers
In April, we wrote to you about the Texas 200 Rottweiler Rescue Mission that resulted in placing over 200 adult Rottweilers into rescues and permanent adoptive homes across the country.
Many of these dogs are special needs and require additional medical care.
Please make a donation to the American Rottweiler Club Disaster Committee to help with the continued medical needs, food and training of these Rottweilers.
Donations can be made through the ChipIn Link Below:
http://arcdc.chipin.com/arc-disaster-fund-rottweiler-rescue
Skin and Ear Troubles!
In the United States, spring has brought with it severe drought to some and serious flooding to others. Both of these conditions cause either too much dryness and dust or too much moisture and humidity. When the temperatures get warm, it creates an environment that is perfect for bacteria and/or yeast to flourish.
Skin and Coat
Skin problems can erupt in a variety of ways. You may see issues arise on one specific area, such as the base of the tail, the feet or in another localized area. It may also present issues in large patches on the body. In any of these situations, the first defense is to bathe the dog with a drying type of shampoo, such as those that are oatmeal based. If the itching is due to environmental causes, it should help immediately and provide comfort for at least a short period of time. Bathing removes the offending allergens and gives short term relief. You can use a rinse of ¾ water and ¼ white vinegar after fully rinsing the dog of the shampoo. This helps remove all the soap from the skin and helps to kill yeast.
If this doesn't solve the problem, I use either a mix of Aloe Vera gel and witch hazel or Thayer's Witch Hazel and Aloe on the affected areas. The witch hazel helps stop the itching temporarily and the Aloe Vera cools and helps heal the affected area.
If the itching and irritation persists, it is time to check for fleas. Even one flea bite on some dogs can cause long term itching and scratching. The best way to check is with a good inspection of the coat and skin. A flea comb can help with this. If you are certain there are no fleas, it is probably time to take your dog to your veterinarian and get a skin scraping and culture, to check for yeast and/or bacteria. Bacterial infections can be treated with antibiotics. Yeast can be corrected with diet and supplements. Yeast likes sugar so it is good to avoid high carbohydrate diets. Home cooked or raw diets work best. Berte's Ultra Probiotic Powder helps balance the good flora and fauna in the digestive tract, which helps fight and kill yeast.
If the cultures come up negative, you may be dealing with food allergies but those are not common and generally don't develop until the dog is a year of age or older. Food elimination diets work best. For good information on elimination diets, please visit this website: http://www.caberfeidh.com/Allergies.htm
Antihistamines may help! Benadryl can be used in dogs, but please check on dosing with your veterinarian! Another more natural antihistamine is Tasha's Skin and Coat. This is an herbal blend that contains nettles and can help control itching and scratching. You administer this herbal tincture by simply applying the recommended dosage on the gum line twice daily.
Treating skin problems requires consistency and persistence. You need to bath your dog regularly and continue applying the Thayer's Witch Hazel or Halo Derma Dream to the affected areas to help heal and sooth the skin.
It is also very important to help support the dog's immune system. When a dog's immune system is compromised, it can over react to normal substances in the environment which results in allergic reactions. Good supplements to help the immune system include EPA fish oil capsules. These contain omega 3 fatty acids, which not only help with coat and skin health, but also help with the immune system. Give one capsule per 10 pounds of body weight daily, with food.
The Berte's Immune Blend contains antioxidants, including vitamin C and E, as well as probiotics which help restore normal flora and fauna in the digestive tract. It also contains l-Glutamine, which aids digestion and helps with healing.
Ear Problems
Both humidity and warm weather also tend to bring on ear problems. You may notice your dog shaking their head or holding their head at an angle. A closer inspection may show redness in the ear canal, dampness in the ear or maybe a brown, waxy discharge. A trip to your veterinarian may be in order, to have an ear culture done. Three things can cause ear problems: ear mites, bacteria or yeast. Ear mites are less likely but easy for your veterinarian to see under a microscope. A culture can determine if bacteria are present and also determine what bacteria it is so the right antibiotic can be prescribed. Yeast is often the likely culprit. Heat and humidity create the perfect environment for yeast to grow in the ear canal and, if it gets severe, bacteria can occasionally develop as well.
If your veterinarian prescribes an antibiotic to treat a bacterial infection, the antibiotics can cause yeast to develop. Therefore, it is important to add probiotics to the dog's diet during the antibiotic duration and for several weeks after the medication is finished so the good flora and fauna bacteria is restored in the body.
For mild yeast problems in the ear, sometimes a simple remedy of equal parts of water and white vinegar are effective as an ear wash. Clean the ears daily for a week to relieve this problem. PLEASE REMEMBER! Never flood the dog's ears with liquid and then leave the liquid in the ears. Liquid put in a dog's ear daily can cause permanent ear drum damage. It is best to use a small amount and then carefully wipe out any excess. Do check your dog's ears often and use the white vinegar and water rinse as needed. I have also added Aloe Vera to this mixture as it helps cool and heal the ear.
Happy Father's Day to the Dad's and we wish all of you a very Happy and Healthy Summer! Please make sure your dog has fresh water available around the clock during these hot summer months! And just in case you happen to be in an area that is visited by skunks, below is a great recipe for getting rid of skunk odor. I sure hope no one needs to use it!
Recipe for Getting Rid of Skunk Odor 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide 1/4 cup of baking 1 teaspoon of liquid soap
When mixed together, the ingredients in this recipe form an alkaline peroxide. This chemically changes the skunk essence into sulfuric acid, which is a completely odorless chemical. The soap helps break down the skunk essence making it more susceptible to the other chemical. Mix the ingredients in an open plastic or stainless steel container and bathe the animal in the solution. Rinse well and repeat if necessary. This mixture is rather volatile, so do not store this mixture or the jug will explode. Make up this recipe only when you need it and dispose of any remaining mixture after you are done using it.
b-naturals dog nutrition news
The Diarrhea DilemmaA common topic when discussing nutrition and diets is how well dogs digest their food. Raw diet proponents brag about small, hard stools that blow away in the wind. Home cooked advocates remark on similar attributes, including fewer odors and commercial dog food supporters look for fewer ingredients and/or no grains for smaller stools. But occasionally, any dog on any diet can develop diarrhea.What Causes Diarrhea?The first question is what causes diarrhea and loose stools? The 3 most common causes are too much food, too much fat or too much fiber.A dog needs about 2% to 3% of their body weight daily in food. When we over feed them, loose stools can result. Try reducing the amount food given by a little bit. You don't want to reduce the amount by more than 10%.A second most common problem is having too much fat in the diet. This can be caused by feeding foods that are too fatty (whole eggs, fattier meats such as lamb, pork and chicken WITH the skin on). Simply reducing the amount of fat by using lower fat food choices will help.Too much fiber creates too much bulk in the diet. This creates larger and messier stools. Fiber sources include carbohydrates, especially grains and starches (such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots and winter squash). Try using fewer carbohydrates (no carbohydrates are needed in a raw diet, but cooked diets should be comprised of about 25% carbohydrates). In commercial diets, add some fresh animal based protein and whole foods such as yogurt or cottage cheese. Fresh animal based proteins can include lean meats and canned fish such as mackerel or sardines.Loose stools can develop in raw diets, if not enough raw meaty bones are fed. Remember, the diet needs to be approximately 50% raw meaty bones. Using chicken necks, skinless backs, turkey necks and pork neck bones can help firm the stool. Conversely, too much bone can cause constipation so remember the 50% rule. Should the stools get too hard on 50% raw meaty bones, use meat with more fat and less boney cuts such as chicken leg quarters, pork ribs, lamb ribs and pork tails.There are some home remedies you can try for upset stomachs. For diarrhea, try giving plain, canned pumpkin. For small dogs, use about ½ to 1 teaspoon per meal. Medium sized dogs would use 1 to 2 teaspoons and a large dog would get a tablespoon.For vomiting, boil a cabbage and save the liquid. Let the liquid cool. Give one cc per ten pounds of body weight as needed.Sometimes diarrhea can be a chronic problem. In this event, it may be something that requires a visit to your veterinarian. This is especially important if the dog has liquid diarrhea as it can result in dehydration. The first step is to have the stool checked by your veterinarian. Certain parasite problems can cause loose stools, including hookworms, whipworms, giardia and coccidea. A fecal float will be able to identify if any of these problems are present. Once diagnosed, all of these parasite problems can be resolved with wormers specific to each parasite. If any of these are present, it would be important to test any of your other dogs, to prevent reinfection.If the fecal tests are clear, then further testing may be needed. This may include blood work and a urinalysis. There are a variety of digestive problems that might cause diarrhea. Some include colitis, irritable bowel syndrome and Irritable bowel disease. An irritated intestinal lining can cause these problems. As the intestinal lining becomes more inflamed, food is harder to digest and spasms can occur in the colon. This can cause loose, 'cow patty' type stools and if it progresses, can also result in vomiting. The key in this situation is to help reduce the inflammation and help the intestinal lining heal. Switching diets, such as from a dry food diet to a home cooked or raw diet can help heal the digestive tract. Dry food can be irritating on the digestive system, as it is high in carbohydrates (fiber) and harder to digest. Home cooked or raw food diets are easier to digest and diets that are lower or have no carbohydrates are easier on the dog's digestive tract.SIBO – (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth) causes large, gassy stools sometimes accompanied by vomiting. A blood test can diagnose this problem. Bacterium that causes this problem feeds on starches and sugars, so a diet change, along with the addition of B vitamins can help resolve this problem. For more on this, go here: http://www.gsdfederation.co.za/articles/sibo.htmEPI – Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) is another digestion problem, which can cause large fluffy, greasy grey stools along with gas. Blood work testing can diagnosis this problem, for more information go to: http://www.globalspan.net/epi.htm#DiagnosisHGE – Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis with HGE – Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis is when there is bloody diarrhea which is often red and clotted in appearance. Vomiting and lethargy can develop later. A high packed cell volume (PCV) in a blood panel will confirm the diagnosis. Toy breeds are more at risk, but HGE has good recovery outcomes. http://vetmedicine.about.com/cs/dogdiseasesh/a/HGEindogs.htmWhat supplements are helpful for diarrhea and gastric problems?There are several important supplements that help with digestive problems. Here are a few that are most helpful:Ultra Probiotic PowderThese are a blend of beneficial bacteria that help in digesting food, preventing gas and discomfort, and also help to boost the immune system. Antibiotics indiscriminately kill the good bacteria, along with the bad, and it is important to replenish these with good flora and fauna bacteria such as acidophilus, streptococcus and enterococcus. These also help to fight yeast overgrowth and keep bacteria from multiplying into harmful amounts by keeping a balance in the digestive tract. Healthy amounts of these friendly bacteria help fight spasms and cramping. Probiotics can be given daily, to help with current digestion and to prevent future digestion problems.L-GlutamineThis is an amino acid that has shown promising results in the last few years to provide healing in the digestive system. Studies have shown it helps to repair intestinal tissue at the cellular level and it is a precursor to glutathione, an antioxidant. L-glutamine is also an aid to help restore muscle atrophy. It also induces the large intestine to remove excess water, which is helpful for dogs prone to diarrhea. Dose at 1,000 mg per 20-40 lbs of body weight twice daily, with meals.Digestive EnzymesThere are several types of digestive enzymes that help break down certain foods. Protease help breaks down proteins, lipase helps to break down fats, and amylase assists in breaking down carbohydrates. There are many enzymes that fall under each category and different enzymes assist with the various stages of digestion. The two most common enzymes are those from either animal or plant sources. Both are necessary to aid in all phases of digestion.Dogs with irritated or inflamed digestive tracts have difficulty breaking down the food for the nutrients, and digestive enzymes can help with this process and offer better nutrition in the small intestine. Some plant enzymes help fight inflammation and reduce swelling. The one that is most useful is Bromelain, an enzyme that comes from pineapple. Important enzymes for fat digestion include pancrealipase. Trypsin is also helpful for gastric retention and fighting inflammation and helps to speed healing of the digestive tract. Bertes Zymes are a helpful blend of all of these, and are given with each meal to help break down fats and proteins before the food reaches the small intestine. The digestive enzymes are also helpful for dogs prone to pancreatitis and have trouble digesting fats.B-Naturals carry a product called Bertes Digestive Blend, which not only contains probiotics, Bertes Zymes and l-glutamine, but also ginger and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG, which helps restore permeability to the digestive tract lining). This product comes in a convenient powder mix and can be sprinkled on each meal. Start at half dose for the first week and slowly increase to full dose during the second week.
Happy Mother's Day!!I hope everyone is enjoying the warmer weather and taking the opportunity to walk and exercise their dogs!
b-naturals dog nutrition news
b-naturals dog nutrition newsIn Part I, we looked at the history of pet food recalls that led to illness and death in our dogs since the 1960's. In Part II, we examined the high carbohydrate content of commercial foods that leads to a diet that is not only high in what dogs don't need, but can lead to health problems that can shorten the life span and adversely affect the immune system of dogs.
The veterinarian business has been booming. Scheduled appointments, rather than walk in visits are the norm today. Higher prices are charged for office visits and more sophisticated medical equipment and techniques are being used more frequently. Check any veterinarian's waiting room and the majority of the problems being addressed include skin and coat problems, gastric symptoms, kidney issues, urinary tract infections or problems with weight management. These problems generally get addressed by veterinarians prescribing antibiotics, flagyl and steroids and the dog's owner leaving with one of these along with a bag of or several cans of prescription dog food meant to address these common problems. These issues have become so common place that specialists are now available on a referral basis to address these health problems on a more advanced level.
Each of the 'special' diets prescribed often further reduce the protein and protein quality in the food, add more fiber, and leave dogs in worse nutritional shape. Our dogs become hungrier as their bodies crave fat for energy and satiation and the lack of high quality animal based proteins result in a loss of organ health and a further compromised immune system. While the owners of these dogs may either become more frustrated or achieve some small satisfaction with the fact that their dog has 'firmer' stools, the unfortunate truth is the, health problems continue to persist with a diet that offers poor nutritional value and is irritating to the digestive tract.
I hesitate to blame our veterinarians. They are practicing what they were taught in veterinary school. The nutrition textbooks and prescription diets have been developed by the dog food industry. While veterinarians may be skilled practitioners with a good ability to diagnose illness, they continue to dispense and give advice on nutrition as it was recommended and taught to them by the pet food industry.
Although many pet food companies may perform research on what diets are needed for our dogs in health and in illness, the real crime is, they know those types of diets can't be duplicated in dry food based diets and the production costs are often too high to provide it in canned foods.
For example, a dog with chronic renal failure may require a low phosphorus diet but it still needs a high quality protein diet for the kidneys to function well. This is interpreted as 'low protein' by the dog food companies and even at that; they use poor quality proteins such as soy or other plant based sources. Poor quality fat is often added to some of these diets to help maintain weight for the dog, but often can result in pancreatitis in dogs with poor kidney function.
The same prescription diets are also offered for calcium oxalate and struvite crystals. These two problems couldn't be more different. Dogs with calcium oxalate crystals need foods low in oxalates, however, not surprisingly, oxalates are contained mostly in grains and vegetables. Struvite crystal formation is NOT a diet related issue. Struvite crystals develop when bacteria is present in the urinary tract. Bacteria cause a high pH in the urine, which is a perfect environment for struvite crystals to form and multiply and create a urinary tract infection. The most effective and assured way to cure the infection is to have a sterile urine culture done, which determines what bacteria are present and what antibiotic is needed to treat the urinary tract infection. A UTI can be difficult to treat, so often a full 4 week course of antibiotics is needed. A follow-up urine culture is necessary after the antibiotic protocol is completed to ensure the infection is completely gone.
Prescription diets are dispensed for dogs with 'food' allergies on the concept that introducing a 'novel' protein will resolve this issue. However; upon examination of any commercial dry dog food there is such a large array of ingredients that it is hard to decipher what foods or ingredients might be the offender. Additionally, putting a dog on a novel protein for a long period of time will only result in an allergy to that protein. Finally, these diets are made up of processed foods and are of poor nutritional quality that they are difficult for even a healthy dog to digest and absorb. Imagine how this might affect a dog that is already having difficulties with digestion.
Dogs with gastric problems such as IBD, IBS and colitis are often given prescription foods that reduce fat and increase fiber. The high fiber helps remove moisture from the stool in the colon which helps produce a firm stool, but also provides less nutrition and creates irritation to the intestinal lining, creating a permanent problem. Owners think the dog is 'fixed' because its stools are firmer, however; over time, further problems can develop. Continued inflammation of the intestinal lining results in poor absorption of nutrients and creates discomfort and pain in the dog.
Weight management is addressed by prescription diets with lower fat and more fiber. This, in turn, creates a dog that is constantly hungry. Dogs need fat to feel full and satisfied. Additionally, a higher carbohydrate diet is more fattening and the dog receives less of the amino acids it needs from an animal based protein diet.
Prescription liver diets also have problems. It is a common misconception that dogs with liver problems need less protein. Nothing could be further from the truth. Depending on the liver issue the dog may need reduced fat in the diet, as fats are processed through the liver, but the liver requires a good amount of high quality proteins to help the liver regenerate. Shunt issues or end stage liver issues that cause ammonia build up in the blood stream simply need to avoid red meat and organ meats, which contribute to this. Poultry, eggs, fish and dairy such as yogurt and cottage cheese offer a good protein source and are fine for these issues.
The very diets created to help with these health problems actually make the problems worse and regular commercial diets are often the impetus of these health problems in the first place, yet the public remains naïve to this fact.
There isn't one commercial dog food on the market today that I can recommend to any dog owner for any reason. The pet food industry, with all their own clever ways of creating marketing schemes to sell commercial dog food, has boxed themselves into a corner. There are ways they could correct this, but it would mean back stepping on everything they have preached over the last 60 years. I think many dog owners would be willing to pay more for a dog food that is healthier for their dogs. The amount spent at the veterinarian clinics reflects that. With a growing awareness of canine nutrition by the public, it is time the pet food industry becomes more innovative. Some solutions they could use might be to develop a pet food and encourage dog owners to add some fresh animal protein to the food. The could also offer pet foods that contain fewer ingredients. Additionally, they could perhaps offer nutrition classes to veterinarians that reveal the latest research in spite of what processed dog food can offer would be helpful.
Unfortunately, until the time comes when large corporations truly care about the populations they claim to 'care about', dog owners need to understand their animals need to have the same quality nutrition they need for themselves. For dogs, this includes a diet that consists of fresh foods, which are animal protein and fat based. It means taking the time to do a little research to understand that a healthy diet means less illness, more longevity, and a better quality of life. This means understanding nutrition for dogs in calcium/phosphorus ratios, amount to feed and the importance of variety in the diet. These aren't difficult concepts and can be achieved in a raw or home cooked diets.
Removing carbohydrates, or severely cutting the amounts in a cooked diet, can result in clean teeth, healthy gums, smaller, firmer stools, little or no doggy odor and improved overall health. While diet can't insure perfect health, it can result in better quality of life. Preparing your dog's meals means that you have control over the ingredients, and insures a high quality of protein with a good variety in the diet.
In "Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs", you can learn how to prepare homemade meals for your dog, and use easy to follow guidelines to help make an uncomplicated transition to fresh food for your dog!
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